The Takoyaki Party.

14th November 2004.

   Takoyaki: A ball-shaped Japanese snack with copious amounts of takoyaki sauce, mayonnaise, green laver (aonori) and shavings of dried katsuobushi brushed & sprinkled over top. All washed down with copious amounts of alcohol.
  Takoyaki Party: Where a group of people - family, friends or whatever - gather at a designated place and make takoyaki, drink alcohol and have a really great time (as in above image).
   Takoyaki reminds me of the great Kiwi takeaway
of Fish-n-Chips. Whereas takoyaki is smothered with sauce & mayonnaise, we smother our fish-n-chips with lashings of tomato sauce. And, to add to the possibility of heart disease, we sometimes devour the meal in what is known as a chip-butty. 
    

   Like the Japanese equivalent, both are best washed-down with a good cold beer, or two. Whether these meals could be regarded as a delicacy, I will leave that up to you to decide. For me. There is only one word to describe a feed of this caliber - oishii.





   Originating in Osaka back in 1935, takoyaki soon became popular in the Kansai Region and later spread (no pun intended) to the Kanto Region and other areas of Japan. Facilities selling takoyaki can be found everywhere and they come in many shapes-and-sizes - specialist restaurants, small street vendors, private homes ( where the garage has been converted), and, like in the image above, at fairs and other public events. 

Video.

   So, where did my love of this delicacy originate from? To answer that I need to go back to the second week of November, 2004. I was standing outside this shop (in the image on the left), at the Keihan Hirakata Station, when I became intrigued by the actions of the staff behind the counter. The man, with a spike in his hand, was busy turning little balls (about the size of a table-tennis ball), on a hotplate, at an incredible pace. Then, when they were cooked, he would flick them into a tray and pass the tray onto the next assistant who would then take a paint-brush and spread brown sauce over them and sprinkle some ingredient over that. Later that evening, during dinner with my family, I recalled to them what I saw earlier and, all in unison, said "aah Takoyaki". Somewhere in their explanation the term "Takoyaki Party" was mentioned and, on the 14th November 2004, I was to experience my first takoyaki party. God-knows how many we devoured, or how much alcohol we consumed, but this was to become the best social occasion in my life. But it didn't finish there. After our mess was cleaned-up, we all hopped-into a car and headed-off to the nearest karaoke parlour  for 4-hours of singing & drinking and fun. I must have been so drunk because the first song I sung was Queens Bohemian Rhapsody.

   Now lets come forward to Sunday 17th March 2013, and the opportunity for my wife and I to host a takoyaki party for our family. But, before I show you the video of the occasion, I shall explain what equipment and ingredients are required.

First up is the special takoyaki pan. These come in many shapes and sizes, depending on how many will be attending your party. This particular pan (in the image on the left) is a combination pan that can be used to cook Okonomiyaki, Teppanyaki and many other recipes.

   For the ingredients you commence with finely-chopped cabbage (much finer than for a coleslaw). For today's party we used half a cabbage which took me the best part of 30-minutes to chop.

  Next Tako, or Octopus, which is diced into small pieces so as not to take up too much space in the dumpling.

   On the tray, in the image on the right, is finely diced Red Ginger, sliced Spring Onion and Tenkasu ( I remember at my first party asking why we were adding Rice Bubbles to the mixture.)











   The three ingredients, in the above image, when mixed, become the all important Batter, in the image on the right. Unlike most batters, that are fairly condensed, this is very thin, like soup. And, as you will witness in the video, it is poured abundantly over the pan. 

And then, to top-it-all-off (no pun intended), the toppings. Firstly a healthy squirting of Mayonnaise, followed by an equally large dose of special Takoyaki Sauce, followed by a generous sprinkling of Katsuobushi ( not to be confused with wood-shavings) and Aonori. 

   Oops. I almost forgot to mention the tools needed. Apart from the knife, to prepare & chop some of the ingredients, and a whisk, to make the batter, you will need a metal spike, to turn and serve the dumplings, but we use long wooden toothpicks instead. Also a special brush to oil the pan before each serving.

   Now this is what your table should look like, as you begin your takoyaki party. All that is missing is the liquid refreshments. But, don't despair, they are only a meter-or-so-away.
   So now sit back and watch this video of the "Barcock Takoyaki Party".













                                                          Bon Appetit.

   

Kyotanabeonesugi Hiking Course.

   For some time now I have been wanting to share with you some of the great Japan rural scenery that I have seen/experienced during my travels. My first dilemma was how to go about it and what to use as the title. Then it struck me. Not far from where I live is an area that is riddled with tracks and lanes that I have spent many hours discovering.

Map Location.

On one such outing I happened across this sign. On it was a description of the "Kyotanabeonesugi Hiking Course" and, once I digested the information, I was soon planning my next outing (not on foot, but on bike). As I proceeded I realized that I had traveled parts of this course during the past years, so much of the area was familiar to me.
   The 'course is about 8km long and has three start/end points - settlements of Tenno, Takefuna & Mizutori - with a bus service to each, and takes the traveller  through a variety of different scenery - rural, secluded settlements, bamboo forests plus a couple of Shrines.

Map Location.
Video.

   For the purposes of this post, I decided to commence/finish my hike at the settlement of Hotani, as that was the closest bus stop to access the course and a  pleasant surprise to end the day on.

Map Location.
Video.

After strolling through the settlement and bamboo forest (the first of many) I arrived at a clearing, with my first rural view, and a three-track junction. During the weekend this area becomes popular with other like-minded people and you need to be alert for others on the track, cyclists as well. 

Map Location.

   About a kilometer on you arrive at another junction, and the 'Onesugi Hiking Course. Take note of the small rock marker in front of you. At this point I must compliment the caretakers for the way the course has been signposted/marked.

Map Location.

Map Location.

Map Location.

   Throughout the course you will come-across many signs of various shapes-and-sizes.The most interesting, and a new addition since I last was here, are the many water-color paintings (as seen in the above image). Being a fan of the arts, I found these to be very interesting.

Map Location.
Video.

 After about a kilometer walk through dense bamboo forest, you emerge into a clearing and you become exposed to some very beautiful & scenic rural environment, in the form of terraced rice-fields. At anytime of year this is beautiful, but, when the rice has just been planted, or is close to harvest, is the best. It's a sight-to-behold (as seen in the video). From here you make your way to the settlement of Takefune (in a roundabout way) but, before then, the first treat of the day, in the form of the Kasagami-jinja Shrine (Video.) 

Torii, entrance to
Kasagami-jinja Shrine.
Map Location.

This is an Inari Shrine and is an ideal location to rest-up, have a bite-to-eat, as-well-as taking in the surrounding scenery. Take a wander to the far end of the site, and check-out the Buddhist Statue nestled amongst the trees. It is also where the track continues it's course. Try and imagine, as you make your way through the forest to Takefune, what it must have been like for me when I came through here on my bike. There were times when I had to push it in front of me because of the denseness of the bamboo.

Map Location.

Takefune, and the first of three junctions where you can either arrive or depart from (there is a bus shelter in the middle of the junction). The lanes here take you to a variety of destinations but, it's the one on your right you need to take. About a hundred meters further along, there is a track branching-off on your right (it is signposted).  

Map Location.

   A bit further on, and you come to more stone-markers. From this point, on a good clear day, you are able to see Todai-ji Temple in Nara Park. It was also here, when I was one of my cycling excursions, that I had a chance meeting with a local lady who could speak English. She was delightful and, whenever I pass here, and she is here, she always has something for me. Keep an eye-out for her. She would love to chat with you.

Map Location.
Video.

After more rural scenery, you are about to re-enter the bamboo forest and travel along the ridge of a hill. The course here follows a line of power-pylons and is quite dense in places. Also pay attention to the track as one can easily take the wrong turn. After a tricky descent you emerge onto a sealed road and rural Mizutori. 

Map Location.

  The settlement of Mizutori is the second of the arrive/depart junctions. The road through the village can be quite busy, so I suggest you take care. There is also a cafe here if you need to quench your thirst, or satisfy your hunger. From here you take a narrow lane, opposite a small bridge, and ascend the road to the settlement of Tenno.

Map Location.

Map Location.

Along the way you get some great vistas of the Mizutori basin, and the line of power-pylons you passed earlier. Partway up I came-across some straw draped over a road-barrier to dry and, nearer Tenno, these small Jizo. 

Map Location.

The settlement of Tenno, and the third and final junction. From here a bus will take you to either Kyotanabe of Hirakata Cities. There is also a quaint wee cane shop in the vicinity and, if you are looking for that little something to take home, check it out. There are four lanes at this junction, yours is the one up the hill, behind the buildings. It is quite steep so you need to pace yourself, and be alert for any descending traffic. 

Map Location.

   As you make your ascent, pay attention. The scenery that unfolds behind you is spectacular (as seen in this video)  but, with many side-lanes joining your course, it would be easy to take the wrong turn (as I did once and did a merry circuit through the settlement). The image on the right is a junction I return to, that takes me to Hotani. At the top is a sign directing you to your next stop.

Torii, entrance to Shuchi-jinja Shrine.
Map Location.

Originally build further west,on the summit of Mt Nishimine, Shuchi-jinja was moved to this present location during the reign of Emperor Senka (536). The Main Hall, built in the 17th year of the Keicho Era (1612), is decorated in the florid style of the Momoyama Period and is registered as a cultural asset of the Kyoto Prefecture. Don't be in a hurry when you get here. Take the time to soak-in the atmosphere and rest-up. This video will give you an idea as to the serenity and beauty that is; Shuchi-jinja.

Map Location.

  From Shuchi-jinja you can either take the track through the forest, and back to Hotani via the track we took at the beginning or, as I did, backtrack a wee way and take an alternative route through more rural landscape, as seen in this video. A kilometer on, and you emerge back at Hotani, and the "pleasant surprise" I mentioned at the beginning of this post.

Map Location.
Video.

The Shigemura Sake Brewery has been here for god-knows how many years (judging by the buildings, I would hazard-a-guess at a couple-of-hundred years). Takao Shigemura, the current operator, is the fourth generation of his family to brew the beautiful drink. So, please don't be shy. Pop-in and purchase a bottle, or two. Their sake-base plumb wine is divine.
   A couple-of-hundred meters on, and you arrive back at the Hotani bus stop. I estimate, taking-in all the photo opportunities, sightseeing, rest-stops e.t.c., you could do this course in five hours (which is what it took me). Don't rush it. Take it all in. You won't be disappointed.

   Useful Links;
        Full version of Kyotanabeonesugi Hiking Course video.
        INOU  version. With map, distance, time & images.

Kiriyama Road.

Canton Avenue.
Map Location.

Pittsburgh City has Canton Avenue.

                                                                                                                           

Baldwin Street.
Map Location.

Dunedin City has Baldwin Street.










    And Kasagi Town has Kiriyama Road.

   So, if you hadn't already guessed,what do these thoroughfares have in common? Answer; they are very steep. I checked-out Baldwin Street, when visiting Dunedin some years ago, and I found the most scariest part was the anticipation of our descent. Although not as steep as Baldwin & Canton ( from top-to-bottom, a distance of 2.1km, Kiriyama drops from an altitude of 312m to 84m, as can be seen in this page from "Ride with G.P.S.") but,what makes Kiriyama Road just as hazardous, are the many distractions and curves that interfere with your concentration. On the day I researched this post I used my ascent for any photo/video opportunities, and my descent to concentrate on the road.

Map Location.

   Although the road goes further up the hill, I have commenced the journey at the Torii, or entrance to Hachimangu-jinja Shrine. Before you leave, I suggest you take a wander around the grounds of the complex. It will be time well spent. From this point also, you get your first vista's of the area surrounding the town of Kasagi, as captured in this Video.

   To record my descent, I have three cameras - my INOU, mounted on my helmet, my video-camera, mounted on the handlebar (which I had to hold as it kept tilting-over) and a still camera in my pocket. After two false-starts (I will add the bloopers at the completion of this blog) I set off but, after a few meters, the first distraction.

Video.

Now, if you are crazy,you can take these steps, but I suggest you be sensible and keep to the track. A bit further on, and some awesome rural scenery unfolds in front of you and a very-sharp right-hand turn. This is the first test of your brakes and their reliability.

Map Location.
Video.

A minute later, and (another) great video-opportunity. At this location you get a great view of Kasagi Town and the surrounding countryside. Once you leave this lane, and join Kiriyama Road, the environment changes and you enter the residential segment of your descent (as the road is narrow and windy, I suggest you concentrate as a car or local may pop-out from one of the many houses or side lanes in the area), and an opportunity to meet some of the very-friendly locals.

Map Location.
Video.

A little further on, and tucked-away amongst some trees, is this small Inari-jinja. The vermilion-colored shrine is always a welcome distraction for me, no matter where I am or what my mode is. But, while here, I discovered two other items of interest - a bus-stop and an unusual door (as seen in the video).




It wasn't until my descent that I had the opportunity to meet more of the locals, on this occasion it was a family of Saru. I have stumbled-across many of these guys in this area and, although they can be quite entertaining, I never stay-around long enough to get to know them.

Map Location.
Video.

Time to meet more of the locals that inhabit this area. If it wasn't for this abandoned car, I wouldn't have had the opportunity to meet this couple (who were more-than-happy for the break from their renovation chores) who provided me with information about Hachimangu-jinja. In situations like this, when departing, the phrase "kiotsukete" is spoken. Which, when translated, means "take care" (I love it). In the image you can see how the road makes a very-sharp left turn. 

Map Location.
Video.

   Jizo's, found anywhere and in some of the most isolated of places, and this one is no exception. Most, like those described in the attached link, are little statuettes out in the open. Some, like this, are housed in small enclosures. Across the road is a homestead (photo at the heading of this page) that captured my attention. These buildings have a certain appeal to them. I'd say the view from the front room, overlooking Kasagi Town, would be spectacular. From here you are about to enter a series of sharp S-bends before the junction with route-163. But, there is one more distraction.....

Map Location.
Video.

"Love Hotels" are a Japanese icon, and very popular. Like the Jizo, they too can be found everywhere and in some isolated places.With Route-163 (a busy National Highway) just a stones-throw away, I couldn't imagine the guests having a very good nights sleep. But, there again, a good nights sleep wouldn't have been the only activity on the agenda. 

Map Location.
Video.

   A hundred-meters down from the Love-Hotel, your goal - the junction of Kiriyama Road and Route-163. Although I warn you in the video, I want to repeat my advice when reaching this point - make sure you stop in time.
   From here, if you still have time, I suggest you pop-across the Kizugawa River and soak-away your aches-and-pains in the Kasagi Onsen (Onsen) followed-up with a meal and drink in the restaurant. This would be the icing-on-the-cake to what (I hope) has been a great day.

   Extra Videos;
      This Video is from the camera on the handle-bars.
      Blooper-1.
      Blooper-2.
      From my INOU. mounted on my helmet.  

      

Return to Fudo no Taki.

   
   I was here back in November 2012, In Search of Fudo no Taki, in what turned-out to be a great days hiking. The waterfalls weren't just the only experience that made my hike so memorable that day - the rural environment was abound plus the isolated villages I passed through. But, as I left the falls, and the weeks that followed, I have had this nagging feeling that there was more to see & experience in this area. It was the stream, that fed the falls, that was of interest to me so, after carefully studying my maps, I put-together a plan. 

Map Location.Video.

My route there was the same, as on my first trip, - depart from Kasagi Station, mountain track to Dosenbo Town then onto the 'Falls - through my kinda' environment. As the weather conditions were bleak - overcast, cold with flakes of snow - I was keen to keep on the move. Two-and-a-half hours and 13-kilometers later I arrived with my stomach making overtures to be fed. 

Video.

 The ice about the 'Falls prompted me to make a coffee along with a bite-to-eat. Fudo no Taki was as impressive as ever as I soaked-in the surrounding scenery. I was conscience that I was here on my own (I did leave instructions with my wife when departing home) and didn't want to do anything too foolish, like slipping on the rocks or getting wet. This location couldn't be more isolated.

Video.

About 100-meters back, before I made the short descent to the 'Falls, I spotted a sign that I am sure wasn't there the first time I visited. Now I knew I was onto something and my prediction was right - there is more to see & experience here. The track, after a short climb & descent through dense forest, emerged at the stream, not far from the top of the 'Falls. 

Location.
Video.

 All along the track I could hear the sound of the stream below, which was a very comforting, but it was the many logs, used for the growing of Shiitake, that caught my immediate attention. One can stumble across these (quite literally) in some of the most isolated of places, this being no exception. From this point the track became a narrow-muddy track, wide enough to drive a small vehicle on. Also in the vicinity, there was what I can deduce to be a camping/picnic facility. 

Map Location.

About a kilometer later I emerged from the forest into a rural environment and this small-isolated shed. Compared to many of these structures I have happened across, this one was in reasonably good condition. It overlooks rice fields about the size of three Rugby Fields and is surrounded by a tall electric fence. Who are they trying to keep out - deer,bears? Time to move on.
   My next destination was the village of Nodono, about 3km down the road, and Rokusho-jinja Shrine (Map Location).

Torii,entrance
to
Rokusho-jinja.

   From the first Torii that greets you, one walks in quietness along a pebbled-path through a forest of tall Cedars, until the second Torii, some 100-meters away. Once through you enter a serenity that I found difficult to leave. Evidence of the recent Shogatsu celebrations were still in place. As I mentioned in the Video, I have no information to include but, I suspect, this complex would have been frequented by those who were passing-by along the Tokaido Road, which skirts the village.

Benten-eke (Pond).
Map Location.

    About now I was becoming wary of the time, and I still had two more stops before my descent into the village of Tsukigaseguchi. The first being Benten-eke Pond. The small shrine, seen in the middle of the pond (in the image on the right) is dedicated to Benten-sama (Benzaiten), one of the Seven Gods of Fortune. As you can see in the video, the pond still has a thin coating of ice atop the surface. The track, on the right of the pond, led into the forest and, I hope, the last of my stops (according to my map) but, after nearly an hour of fruitless searching, I returned to the sealed road, and my descent.

Map Location.

About 2km into my journey I stopped for a break and spotted a sign partly obscured in the bush. Although my grasp of Kanji isn't anything to be proud of, some of the characters on the sign looked familiar. Upon closer inspection, with the aid of my map, the sign was giving directions to the object I searched for earlier. With time on my side, I entered the forest in search of........

Video.
Map Location.

   Roku-jizo Maigaibutsu. Now you can see why I was so obsessed in finding this carving. Let me explain; in Japanese, Roku means six. So, this is a carving of Six Jizo. But it's not just a carving, it's a Maigaibutsu. The Jizo are commonly found, in the shape of small statues, on the side of the road (as seen in the attached link) but, what intrigued me, was the location of this carving. If you look at the map location you will see what I mean. The only conclusion I came to was that this track was once part of the Tokaido Road and wary travellers paused here to offer prayers.

Yours Truly
and
Rokujizo Maigaibutsu.

With yours truly standing beside the rock, you get an idea of the size of the carving and it's height above the ground. Unless, since the carving was created, the ground has eroded, I get the impression the creator would have required some form of scaffolding to stand on. 
   Time to exit the forest and back to the sealed road. I estimated I had the best part of 5-km to walk, before my arrival at Tsukigaseguchi Station.

Abandoned Dwelling.

   After crossing the busy Route-163, I re-entered the bush and another abandoned building. As you will see in this video this, whatever it was, has some appeal and I couldn't help but stop and admire it. Some parts of it looked old - the mud & straw exterior cladding - but the electric door-bell made me think it wasn't all that old or that long-ago when someone resided there.

J.R. Tsukigaseguchi Station.

About seven-and-a-half hours after alighting the train at Kasagi, I finally reached my destination. This is an unusual station. The platform is elevated which allows panoramic views of the village and surrounding hills. From here I was able to look back from where I had just come from and reminisce about my day, but, unfortunately, with my train about to arrive, I couldn't do it while enjoying a drink of Sake to toast my accomplishment ( all was not lost, I did partake of a sip while on the train). Kanpai.

   Course Map.