Hiking the Border in the Soraku District.

   It seems, when I look back over the past year, I have been spending a lot of time in this area, either on foot or on my bike. The Soraku District has a lot to offer for the outdoors person, like myself and, each time I venture into the area, I discover a new track that lures me back to check-out. About 4-months ago I hiked a course, commencing at Tsukigaseguchi, and finishing at Shigarakicho Tarao (my ENOU recording of the trip), which required me to follow the borders that separate the prefectures of Kyoto, Mie & Shiga. When I reached the junction, where I was to leave the border track and descent into Tarao (map location), I became curious as to whether the track I was on continued and, if so, where did it end?

Map Location.

   So, an idea was born, and a plan created - I would return to Tsukigaseguchi, re-acquaint myself with the border track and hike through to route-138 (the Tarao-to-Iga road) and, if possible, descend a track into the settlement of Shimagahara (my planned route). I was wary that this area of Japan was experiencing a heatwave and, with the first part of my hike up a steep ascent through dense forest, I needed to pace myself.

   The track is well marked with concrete posts (as seen in the image on the left) and red tape tied to trees.

Map Location.

   About 2-kilometers in I reached the settlement of Okuda. The rural scenery in Japan at this time of year is very green, with the rice fields midway through their growth, before harvest in around September/October. The next time I see this scenery, I hope, will be when I descend into Shimagahara. After some bush-bashing, and an ascent up a dirt incline, I reach my track (in the above-left image). On my last trip through here I happened-across some wild deer but was unable to get my video-camera out in time to record them. On this occasion I was better prepared but, as luck would have it, no deer.

Map Location.

As I ascend I am treated to some splendid vistas overlooking the Tsukigaseguchi area, and the opportunity to take-in some water. Then, nearing the top of this section, I pass Yurugi-iwa (rock). The rock resemble the legendary creature Tengu and, the previous two times I have passed-by this rock, there have been flowers in the vases.

   Five minutes on from the rock I arrive at the junction with the Mikune-goe Rindo then, my next segment and my first rest-stop.

Map Location.

   This sheltered rest stop is an ideal location to take a break, have a bite to eat, and admire the 90-degree view below. And what a view it is. With views like this, one finds it difficult to move-on.

Map Location.

    A couple-of-hundred meters on and this knob. In the video I refer to this as an "un-named mountain" ( it's about 637m above sea-level) but in fact it's the junction of Kyoto, Mie & Shiga Prefectures. My track veers off to the right. Unlike the first few hundred meters to this point, the next segment is a bit overgrown with pig fern and I have to watch where I place my feet.

Map Location.

   Now something I debated with myself, as to whether I should include in this post. But, what the hell. Japan pays a lot of importance on it's infrastructure, in particular in the area of access-roads, motorways, mountain-lanes (as in the image on the left). Suddenly, as I was making my way through the forest, I emerge onto this mountain lane. This is not uncommon but, in this instance, it goes nowhere. Maybe it's on the 10-year plan. 
   Not much further on and the junction that descends into the settlement of Shigarakicho Tarao. From here I am in uncharted territory, but, like the track to this location, it is well posted and tagged. The track also is well defined ( I began to suspect that the lane I mentioned, may eventually pass along this route). In some parts the track and markers crisscross. 

Map Location.

   I suddenly come-across a junction, with some felled trees lying around, which was my cue to break for lunch - hot curry & chocolate bread sticks, all washed down with a mug of cafe au lait. Little did I realize at the time, I was now off course (as seen in the "Map Location" attached to the above image). The track I was on was still well defined and marked, but not for long. Soon the track began to descend very steeply through dense bush, to emerge onto the "Mikuni Forest Road", on the outskirts of the settlement of Shimagahara. As I wasn't in the mood for another ascent (to rejoin my planned route) I opted to leisurely make my way to the station, taking-in some of the local scenery, and home.

   As the trains through Shimagahara Station are few-and-far-between, I spent my 50-minutes waiting time consuming another cafe au lait & a pack of current buns, while I also assessed my day. 
   Later that night, accompanied with a 6-pack of beer, I uploaded my G.P.S./trip details (Hiking the Borders of Soraku) and, along with other maps, I was able to pinpoint where I strayed-off my course - about 50-meters back from my lunch site. For the following few days I obsessed as to whether I wanted to complete this course and, the conclusion I came to.......

......Hiking the Border in the Soraku District - part-2.

Map Location.

   So, one week later (almost to the hour), I was back here and my second attempt at hiking the border to route-138. If last weeks heat was bad enough, today's forecast was for temps' peaking at about 37c (two extra bottles of water were included in my pack, just in case). I followed the same course but, when I reached the junction of the 'Tarao track, I followed the pegs and not the track. That way, I hope, I wouldn't stray-off course. 

Map Location.

I soon reached this peg (in the image on the left) and, in the distance I could see other pegs. Putting two-and-two together, I felt I was still on course (oops, wrong. I should have turned left here). Little did I know, I was about to pass my lunch site from the week before, albeit on another track.

Map Location.

The track was still well defined & marked then, when I arrived at this point (the image on the right), the pegs suddenly stopped. At this point certain expletives could be heard emanating from my mouth. A quick check of the G.P.S. function on my cellphone (something I didn't realize I had) and yes, like last week, I was (again) off course. I followed what looked like an old track, which connected to other old tracks, which eventually emerged at, guess where, yes, the Mikuni Forest Road, but a bit further down from last week.

    In a way I was relieved, as it gave me the excuse to stop for lunch, and wring the sweat out of my clothing. I was soaking wet and ..... hungry. I returned to the station via the same route as last week and, on this occasion, I only had a 40-minute wait for my train. Still time for a cafe au lait and current buns. 
   Upon return home I again uploaded my G.P.S./trip details (Hiking the Borders of Soraku - part-2.) and, along with other maps, discovered where I strayed-off my course.

......Hiking the Borders in the Soraku District - part-3. 

   Will there be a part-3? Yes, I think so. But, this time I will plan my attempt from the other end - route-138 (map location) - when this heatwave is over. 

                So, until next time, Sayonara from the Soraku District.

   Full video of both outings.

Route-307. Koka to Kyotanabe.

   Route-307 is classified as a National Highway, but I refer to them as Inter-Prefecture Roads.  Commencing it's journey in Hirakata City, '307 passes through three prefectures, before ending at the city of Hikone, a journey of just over 100-kilometers. My plan however is to cover a small section, beginning at the junction with route-5, at Koka City, and ending at the Yamashiro-ohashi Bridge, in Kyotanabe City, and I will do this by cycling roads and lanes that run parallel to, or, in the vicinity of '307 (in some sections I will have no alternative than to use '307), and, along the way, check-out what lies alongside or nearby. 

Raccoondog Figurines.

   A kilometer into my exploration and my first point-of-interest. The area surrounding Shigaraki is famous for it's pottery & ceramics, and this shop (map location), selling Racoondog figurines, is just one of dozens selling a range of products. This video best shows the selection available, and not just Raccoondogs.
   Just down the road from the gallery, and my first detour off '307, and into the settlement of Kamiasamiya. I spot a lane branching-off the street that begs further investigation, and I am so pleased I did. This video, taken using my INOU device (sorry no sound), best describes the feeling I get, when passing through settlements such as this. Though one does have to be careful, as one doesn't know what/who lies just around the corner.

Map Location. 

   And, it was one such corner that I happened-across this establishment - a Ramen restaurant. This is a popular chain throughout Japan, and can be found in many cities across the land. But here? In this isolated settlement? I couldn't believe it. This begs further investigation, at another time when I'm not wearing my sweaty cycling gear.

Torii, entrance to
Sansho-jinja.

Entrance Gate and Purification Trough.

Stage.

   Next door to the restaurant, and set in amongst tall cedar, is the Sansho-jinja Shrine (sorry no information available). Always on the lookout for these complexes, I found this particular jinja different, in as much as the buildings located throughout the site. As this video will show.
  Leaving the shrine I continue my way through Kamiasamiya, where I re-connect with '307, albeit for about 100-meters, before exiting into the settlement of Shimoasamiya. Nothing here that attracts my attention and, before long, I'm back-onto '307 and my next junction.

Map Location.

   It's at this junction (map location) where route-307 originally came through, before they bored the tunnel and made a bypass. I remember, in 2003, driving to Shigaraki along the old road and feeling quite squirmish  with all the tight bends. This video, I hope, will give you an idea of the conditions (sorry no sound). From here '307 runs in the vicinity and, until I re-join it, at the settlement of Hatatani, I get to see/experience some awesome scenery. Then, after two more junctions, one being route-283, the road to Wazuka Town, I come 

Map Location.

across this place of worship. Judging by the small Kitsune either side of the monument, this is an Inari Okami.

   By now my stomach is sending me massages that it's time to refuel if I am to continue (up to this point I had covered about 55km, and been on the road for just over 4-hours) then, suddenly, out-of-the-blue, my ideal location for a lunch-break.

Torii, entrance to
Yuki/Sachi-jinja Shrine.

Map Location.

   Yuki/Sachi-jinja ( please excuse the dual name. Because of the difficulty in interpreting Kanji, it can be difficult to name a place) was an ideal location to re-charge my batteries, check my map and some of the images taken so far.

   Looking at the materials used in the construction of this complex, I would hazard-a-guess this is  fairly new, or has recently been restored. This video will give you an idea of my surroundings while I took my break. 
   The settlement of Hatatani wouldn't have know what struck it when, about 10-years ago, route-307 was re-routed past the town, instead of passing through it. Some of the houses border right on the edge of the road, and the road itself is very narrow.

Map Location.

   As I exit the settlement of Hatatani, a lane takes me away from '307 and into the hills, and some great rural scenery, as seen in this video (sorry no sound). Oh it is so great to be in my kinda' environment. For the next couple of kilometers I enter the forest and muddy/rutted tracks.

Map Location.

   I reach a junction where I am forced to alight my bike and lug myself up a muddy track. With all the rain of the past week, I was cautious of fallen debris and slipping. Then, when I reach the plateau, this Jizo. As you can see in the image, I was thankful for the respite. I also detected the sound of drizzle above, which lasted all of a few minutes, and the canopy allowed me shelter.
   A short distance on and I exit the forest and emerge at a clearing, and another junction. Here, five tracks  converge coming from the major points of the compass (map location), which also indicated that I was on the outskirts of the settlement of Yuyadani. 

Map Location.

   I enter another forest and, as I exit and descend the lane, my attention is drawn to this interesting house. This was the homestead of Nagatani Soen, a man famous in this area for developing a technique for processing tea. Today his house is a museum dedicated to his work. Surrounding the house is a beautiful garden with picnic area. The day I visited, the hydrangeas were in full bloom, which added a touch of color to the surroundings.

Torii, entrance to
Chasomyo-jinja Shrine,

 Across the road from the homestead, is the Chasomyo-jinja, which is also dedicated to Nagatani Soen. Some months ago, while hiking through the area (Pilgrimage of Prayer), I recorded this video.

Map Location.

  

   Time to move on and, as I pass through Yuyadani, my first view of '307 for over an hour (but I don't re-join it). I then take another lane that takes me through tea plantations and a forest-pass (above image) before emerging into the suburbs (for want of a better description) of Ujitawara.

   I am now to be reacquainted with '307, but just for a few hundred meters, before I veer-off again into the back-blocks and narrow lanes of Ujitawara. My next junction is with route-62, the Ujitawara-to-Wazuka road. This part of '62 was once where the Tokaido Road passed through on it's way to Kontai-ji Temple, Wazuka, Mikuni-goe Rindo and beyond. Then, before I know it, there is '307 again. The next 2km is the most dangerous section of the entire length of this road. It's very narrow and allows no room for error. Come-off your bike, and pray that there isn't a vehicle on your tail. Emerging from this stretch, and into the town of Ide, I discover a lane branching-off to my left. Eager for an alternative I take it and discover it follows a stream and, after crossing several junctions, I emerge at the Yamashiro-ohashi Bridge (map location). But I'm not home yet. The junction of routes '307 and '24 is one hell of a busy intersection and, to get onto the bridge cycle-path, I take advantage of the pedestrian crossing, before my final segment. 

Map Location

    31-kilometers x 3.5-hours after leaving Koka City, and passing-through several settlements and experiencing some great scenery along the way, I have arrived at my goal - the Kizugawa River cycle-way, Kyotanabe City.
   Now, where shall I go for my next excursion? 

   Full video of trip.

   Trip, through Riding with G.P.S. page.

   Trip recorded using my INOU device.     

Route-5 - Kamo Town to Koka City.

Yours Truly.

   Route-5 is another of those roads I have either commuted along, or crossed over, while on one of my outings. Like the Mikuni-goe Rindo (Mikuni Forest Road), I have treated route-5 in much the same way, by not paying much attention to what lies along-side or in the vicinity. So I decided it was time to change that.
   Commencing at the junction with route-163, in the town of Kamo (map location), route-5 passes through the town of Wazuka (famous for it's Tea), as-well-as the settlements of Harayama, Yubune, Nakayama and Shigaraki, before completing it's journey at the junction of route-307 at Koka City (map location). For the main part the road is joined by the Wazuka River, albeit in a less direct course, and, as we progress,  gradually decreases from a river to a stream before disappearing into the hills to it's source.

Sekibutsu Miroku.

     After spending the past hour cycling along '307, with it's heavy traffic, noise and dust, it was great to finally get onto a country road and into cruise mode. Four kilometers in and my first point-of-interest, the Sekibutsu Miroku (map location). The carving depicts the image of Maitreya Buddha and, according to the plaque, was created in April of 1300. As it was on the opposite side of the river, I wasn't prepared to go the extra few kilometers to get there, so I shall share this video, taken during a hike into the area.

Sekibutsu Pagoda.

   A few hundred meters on, and my next POI. The Sekubutsu Pagoda (map location) is a monument in remembrance to the "Great Yamashiro Flood" of 1953. During the course of the clean-up, the many stone carvings that make up this creation, were gathered and used to make this monument.

Wazuka Town.

   Next stop, Wazuka Town. It's here one gets the first glimpse of what this area is famous for - Tea. Tea, as far as the eye can see, and in some very isolated of places. Standing on the bridge (map location), at the junction of routes-5 & 62, and looking about the hills that surround this town, one can see hillside plantations with some great cycling & hiking tracks, tracks used by farmers as access to their crops. In front of you is Mount Taiko, which is in fact the Kofun, or Burial Mound of Prince Asaka (video), the 5th son of Emperor Shomu.

Route-5/Tokaido Road Junction.

    Before long I am leaving Wazuka Town behind and arrive at the Harayama Junction (map location). It is at this location the Tokaido Road, after it's descent from Jubu-san (Mt Jubu) & Kontai-ji Temple, makes it's way through the village & rice-fields before it's ascent on the opposite side of the valley, to connect with the Mikuni-goe Rindo. It's hard to imagine what this intersection, if there was an intersection, looked like some 400-years ago, when people were migrating through here. I doubt if the bus-stop was here then.

   From this point the valley closes-in and the road and river follow each other more closely then opens again, a few kilometers on, and a couple of tunnels, at the settlement of Yubune (map location). As I pass through the settlement the road becomes very narrow with the houses bordering right on the edge of the thoroughfare (as seen in the image on the left). With the occasional truck passing through, life must be hell inside these dwellings. One wrong move and someone may have a Mack Truck parked in their front room.

Torii
entrance to
Hongan-jinja Shrine.

   As I begin to exit Yubune I find a sheltered area to stop for a break and check-out a small roadside stall selling fruit and veges. I get my video camera out to record the scenery and, as I am recording, I discover a concrete Torii set amongst the tea plantation. Of the four times I have passed through this area, I never noticed this. So, with cameras in hand, I ascend the steps to discover what lies amongst the trees. Hongan-jinja (video) is made up of three small Hokora, or miniature Shinto Shrines, quite common in small areas such as Yubune. 
   Just around the corner is the settlement of Nakayama and, like it's neighbour, the houses are very close to the road edge. Earlier this year, while waiting for a bus to take me to Kamo (this is the terminus), I had an hour to spare. So I decided to check-out and wander through the settlement. While doing so, I discovered this awesome temple overlooking the houses below. Taiti-Tera Temple is well worth the time to visit.
   

Map Location.

   
   As I exit the valley confines of Yubune and Nakayama, the area opens up and more tea plantations. On this occasion right down to the very edge of the road, as seen in the image on the left. Also take note of how narrow the road is. A couple of kilometers back, two trucks had a hell of a job passing each other and one, towing a vehicle trailer, had to back-up to allow the other to pass.

Map Location.

   I have reached a junction, and the time to farewell the Wazuka River. At this point the river heads into a surrounding valley and it's source. I have hiked and cycled the trail that accompanies the river (now a stream) on two occasions, and there is some terrific scenery to be experienced.
  

Map Location.

   A few hundred meters on and my next point-of-interest - this extensive picnic/recreation area. The site covered the best part of a kilometer, with play areas, sheltered dining sheds, walking trails and, through the middle of it, a stream. I have placed this in my "must return" list, with my family.
   A short distance along and I reach the border separating Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures (map location). After the gradual incline of the past 19-kilometers, I feel a distinctive change and freewheel into the city of Koka ( the stream accompanying the road is now flowing in the same direction). The area is made famous because of it's pottery making and, if pottery and ceramics is for you, this is heaven.

Map Location.

   I soon discover a pottery maker that is open and, with the permission of the potter, I take a look through his gallery. If I was in a car, and had plenty of money, I would have gone on a shopping-spree. This site has also been placed on my "must return" list. 

Map Location.

   As I come around a sweeping bend, I notice a large volume of traffic in the distance, and this sign informing me that the junction of route-307 and route-5 are just up ahead. My journey-of-discovery is about to come to an end. It's been an awesome outing but, there again, all my outings are awesome. That's the way it is with me. And that's why I am an "Outdoorholic" . I hope you have enjoyed this journey, as much as I have enjoyed bringing it to you.
   If you do plan to experience Route-5, regardless of your mode, don't be in a hurry. Especially when you arrive at the many settlements. Find a place to park, then take a leisurely stroll. You won't be disappointed with what you find. 

                So, in signing-off, I shall bid you farewell until the next time. 

   Full video of Route-5.

   Map of the course - http://ridewithgps.com/trips/1457804   

Takeda Castle.

 
   Could you imagine yourself waking-up one Summers morning, and looking through your bedroom window at this view?

   Or wondering about your property, admiring the Sakura when they are in full bloom in early Spring?

     Or taking-in the many colors that are abound during the Autumn season?      

    

   Or sitting beside a roaring fire, while your home and property are engulfed in layers of snow, during the Winter months?                                                                                                                                                                                       

    Well, that's the view Ohtagaki Mitsukage would have experienced when he, and others, resided at Takeda-jo. Located on the summit of a mountain (map location), towering over 1,000-feet, and commanding views overlooking a vast area, this castle must have been feat of engineering to construct. The castle covers an area of more than a quarter-of-a-mile in length, and 300-feet in width.

   Mitsukage, a retainer of Yamana Sozen (Lord of the area), constructed the castle in 1441. In 1577 the castle was conquered by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who soon placed control of the castle in the hands of his younger brother, Toyotomi Hidenaga who, after less than two years residing at Takeda-jo, moved-on to take up residence at Izushi-jo and was replaced by Akamatsu Hirohide. Akamatsu, who took part in the Battle of Sekigahara, became the last Lord of the castle. He committed Seppuku after he was accused of setting fire to the Castle Town of Tottori, and Takeda-jo was abandoned. 

     After more than four-centuries of abandonment, sadly, all that remains of this once magnificent structure, are it's Ishigaki (stone walls). But, that's not to say the site is any less magnificent today, than what it was all those centuries ago.

   Some may consider a site like this boring, and not worth the time and cost to visit. But, take it from me, they couldn't be more wrong. Try to get your head around the incredible feat of engineering required in the construction of this castle. Firstly, an access route would needed to have been created  to the summit. Then, thousands of feet of soil would have had to be excavated before rocks could be laid for the foundation.

   Getting the rocks up to the summit wouldn't have been easy either, there were some huge boulders interlocked to give support to the main structure, as can be seen in these images.

  
   Now it's time to commence the construction of the many buildings that were to make-up Takeda-jo. I would hazard-a-guess some of the trees that were felled during the excavation process, would have been kept and used but, like the rocks & boulders needed for the foundation, most would have been hauled up the mountain from down below. Now, lets compare today with 1441. Today we have the luxury of modern machinery - cranes, bulldozers, trucks, to name a few. Six-hundred years ago they didn't have machines to do all the hard toil with. They had to rely on manpower. 

           

   For those working on the construction, the vistas below must have been a huge distraction. For me, as a visitor, I was overwhelmed with the surroundings as I tried to imagine what the views must have been back then.

 
   If you are planning to visit Takeda-jo, there are two ways you can see & experience these ruins: the ruins themselves, and the view from a mountain opposite, as in this image on the left (map location). Both require some walking and you have many options of what route to take. 

    If you plan to include  

the view from the opposite mountain, you will get an idea of the excavation that took place to prepare the site for construction. Also you will  encounter other sites of interest. Like this Torii, in the image on the left, and, a bit further up, this Jizo. There are also several shelters/picnic-spots along the way offering magnificent views of the castle. Take refreshments with you to enjoy once you reach your destination(s) and, most important, don't forget your camera. 

    Any time of year would be a good time to visit Takeda-jo but, in saying that, you may need to take extra precautions during winter, especially if it has been snowing.
   How to get here. Because Japan places a lot of importance on it's infrastructure, you can access Takeda from any part of Japan and by whatever means. If you are travelling by car, I suggest you program your vehicles navigation device and just drive. The Japan Rail Bantan Line passes-through Takeda, either on it's way to Himeji or Asago Cities, with connections to other major J.R. Lines. 

   Takeda Castle is referred to as Japan's Machu Picchu and, as I haven't had the honor of visiting the latter, I can quite understand how it came by that name. Like it's South- American counterpart, Takeda-jo is a very popular tourist destination - it is registered as a "National Historic Site" and has been placed on the "Top 100 Castles" list - and, during weekends and public holidays, can be very busy. So, if you are travelling here by car, I suggest you park your car in the village and take the track up to the summit. That way you will avoid the long queue to get a car park. There is also a bus service if you want to take the leisurely course. One final piece-of-advice - don't be in a hurry.

   I would like to take this opportunity to acknowledge the assistance of Eric, who administers  the 'site - Jcastles - Guide to Japanese Castles, for allowing me to access information and images on Takeda-jo. If you are planning on including a visit to any castle, while in Japan, I suggest you refer to this 'site.