My latest Post.

This view,this beauty
A tear unbidden
Creeps into my eye.

My stay is short
But I shall return to this place
If only my life is long enough.

Such beauty
Gazing upon it
I hope my years are many.

Bokusui Wakayama.

Sunday, April 21, 2019

Nishigamo, Kyoto City - revisited.



   The purpose of this revisit to Nishigamo was to check-out the track I missed on my previous excursion - 'Nishigamo, Kyoto City - the return'. If successful, then all going well I would decide where to go from there - I had a few ideas in my head, but all depended on where/if this track emerged.
   This is a good time of year to be in Japan - actually, any time of year is a good time to be in Japan - as many of the Sakura would still be in bloom. And I wasn't to be disappointed, as I was to witness as I made my way along the Kamogawa River through Kyoto City. As this is a busy thoroughfare, both with cyclists & walkers, care is needed if one wants to admire the surroundings, and the best course-of-action, is to stop. 


Map location.
     From Demachiyanagi, where the Takanogawa & Kamogawa Rivers converge, there are thirteen bridges that cross the river. I needed to exit the path at bridge seven; take the wrong exit, and god-knows where I would end up. Thankfully my counting skills were still in working order. From here I made a bee-line for Akiba-jinja. This is where I emerged on my previous trip into the area.



     A few hundred meters before Akiba-jinja, partly camouflaged by trees, was Shoryu Benzaiten-sha Shrine. As I was in touring mode, and in no particular hurry, I stopped to check-out the site.


     By the time I reached Akiba-jinja the day was beginning to heat-up. To this point I had already cycled 36km, and it had been three hours since breakfast. So a banana was the order of the moment, along with posing for the obligatory photo, before proceeding.
     The track from this point changed dramatically, to become rocky and, at times dangerous. I needed to weave my way between large rocks, making sure I didn't slip & fall, or end-up in the stream below, all the while taking-in the awesome scenery one would come to expect in this type of terrain. The fact that the track wasn't a steep ascent went in my favour. I did notice, as I made my way, a couple of other tracks branching-off the one I was on. As there were no signposts indicating where they led to, I stayed on my course.
     The euphoria I was feeling at this point was about to be sorely tested - 



   - when I arrived at this junction.There was another track branching-off at this point but, as it didn't look anything, I proceeded ahead (also the sign that was nailed to the tree said 'Kyomi-toge' straight ahead).


   To describe the next section of track, the words 'very steep' would be an understatement, to say the least. For the next 1km I would climb nearly one-hundred meters, up a narrow path pushing my bike in front of me (as in the image on the right) using my brakes as anchors. As I had no idea where I was, in relation to where I hoped to emerge, I can't express enough how I felt when I heard the sound of a motorbike passing nearby.



     I was so relieved when I emerged onto route-31, just opposite the junction with the Kodo Nagasaka-michi Road (map location). In a way I was pleased I missed this track on my previous visit, because descending this section would have been tempting fate. Experiencing the same exhilaration as I did on my first two ventures into the area, I made the decision to proceed through the Kyomi-toge to the Himura-michi road, and check-out another track.
















     My next stop, and respite from my recent struggle, was at Himura-jinja (map location). Himura, translated into English, means 'Ice House'. It is believed a shrine was established here in the 17th Century, when Kyoto was the Imperial Capitol. Ice was collected from nearby ponds, and stored here exclusively for the Imperial Palace. 


     A few hundred meters down the road from the shrine, and through some rice fields, is this monument. I had noticed this site on Google Maps when I was doing my research for this trip, and I was keen to check it out. Located here are the remains of the Hiuro's Ice Pits. A track, leading up behind the monument, took me to three small dents in the ground. 


  
     A mountain stream fed water into the dents and, when became frozen, were then carried to the nearby shrine, and eventually to the Imperial Capitol. In 1994 this site, and Himuro-jinja, were designated an 'Important Cultural Heritage Site of Kyoto'.


     From this point my track led past more rice fields and on into a forest. If my research was accurate, I should emerge back onto route-31. The track was well formed and soft. Shortly after entering the forest I happened-across this cemetery. What a serene location to spend eternity. Shortly after leaving the cemetery I arrived at a junction. My track now became a sealed lane and my first impression was that I had arrived at my intended destination. A quick check of my smartphone map told me I was still some distance from route-31. So I proceeded on, passing several derelict outbuildings and, as I turned a bend, there in front of me was my intended junction.


    From here I headed back in the direction of the Kyomi-toge Pass but, before that, was another stop.
   There is nothing more refreshing than to drink pure & clear spring mountain water and, at Funamizu-no Sugisaka (water of Kyomi-toge), one can do just that. I come-across these springs a lot during my travels and always take the opportunity to fill my bottles before moving-on. Some of these sites are very popular and, at times, one has to stand in line. I leave the spring well sated and proceed towards Kyoto, not knowing what course I will take. I arrive back at the junction of the Kodo Nagasaka-michi Road and made the decision to take this route and return home via Arashiyama. Having cycled this road once before, I was aware of it's steepness and extreme caution was the order-of-the-day; the 1km distance, from top-to-the-bottom, the road drops 200m.


   At the bottom I take another narrow mountain lane that will take me up-and-over the hill, thereby avoiding the crowds of tourists converging on Kinkaku-ji Temple - this is one of the top tourist sites in Kyoto and, trying to weave ones way through the throngs of people and vehicles, can be very frustrating.
   The solitude and serenity of the past few hours is about to be broken, in a big way. At the plateau of this hill lies the 'Haradanien Gardens' (map location) and, with the Sakura in full bloom, thousands of people have converged here to take part in the annual Hanami ritual. Here's me thinking I was being clever. 


Map location.


    I soon emerged onto route-29 and make my way to Arshiyama, passing the Hirosawa Pond. Many of the Sakura overlooking the pond are still in bloom, and I stop to appreciate the very beautiful scenery.


     If I thought the area around the Haradanien Gardens was congested, then the main street through Arashiyama was chaotic. The footpaths on both sides of the street were totally redundant and traffic was restricted to a crawl. The 'Togetsu-kyo bridge' was no better. I did manage to find a bench overlooking the Katsuragawa River, where I could sit and take on some sustenance, before commencing on the last 32km trip home. It was good to be back on my own again and, with a good tail-wind to help me, I cruised home.
   Ninety-one kilometers and six hours later, I arrived home. I was buzzing with joy at such a great day I had had.

     This brings to an end my exploration of Nishigamo, but I do plan to return to the area surrounding the settlement of Himuro. My 'Strava' connection has posted another route in the area I am keen to check-out. But that's another story.

     As always, thank-you for reading my blog and, until next time - 


Sayonara.

   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2283430469      


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