Hida-Takayama - a Tourist Destination.

   Access to Takayama, like nearly all cities and towns throughout Japan, is very easy, and that is regardless of your mode ( you might find this article on Japan's Infrastructure interesting). If you are entering Japan by air, the Central Japan International Airport outside Nagoya City would be your best & closest bet (although, in saying that, the International Airports at Tokyo and Osaka are also a stones-throw away). There is also an International airport at Toyama if you are flying-in from some Asian Countries.

J.R.Limited Express.

The image on the left is the J.R.Limited Express that operates on the Takayama Main Line between the cities of Nagoya and Toyama. Both of these cities are on the Japan Rail Network giving you good access from wherever in Japan you are coming from. 

 If you are planning on driving to Takayama, then the Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway would be your quickest way but, if you want to see/experience some great Japanese Scenery (and have the time), then come via one of the many National Highway Roads that access the area. And, last-but-not-least, buses. Like the rail network, the bus-service to/from Takayama is second-to-none with regular services linking the area with Osaka, Kyoto, Tokyo, Nagoya, as-well-as Kanazawa, Toyama and Matsumoto. This guide will give you a better indication as to how to get here - "Getting to Takayama".
   You have worked-out how to get here, now your next step is to find somewhere to stay. Takayama has quite a selection of hotels to choose from, all providing high-quality service and located throughout the inner city and surrounding area. I shall let the folks at "Takayama Guide" impress you with what is available. 

Ryokan.

Minshuku.

If you are looking for accommodation in the traditional category, then I would recommend a Ryokan. To find what is available, and at what cost, Takayama Ryokan Association will be of assistance. If you want something a little downbeat from the Ryokan, the Minshuku is your best bet - roughly equivalent to the English Bed-and- Breakfast. Hida-Takayama Minshuku Association will be of assistance. 
If you are on a budget, there is a huge range of hostels available, including a Youth Hostel. This is a good 'site to help with selecting a hostel - Hostels in Hida-Takayama. If a member of your touring-party is the family dog, then you can't go past the Takayama Wan-Wan Paradise Hotel. Set in amongst the forest and located on the mountains that border Gifu and Nagano Prefectures, this is the perfect hotel (you don't have to have a dog to stay here). The restaurant, serving traditional Japanese fare, are top quality. The Onsen I would class as the best I have experienced in my time living in Japan.

Takayama WanWan Paradise Hotel.

   Now doesn't the above image look delicious? Traditional Japanese Cuisine is very healthy and tasty (that's coming from someone who has been eating it for the past 8-years) and Hida-Takayama has many restaurants for you to experience. I won't post any names but leave it up to you to discover where to eat. But let me say this, in Japan food quality is second-to-none in the world. There are also a few Western Restaurants & cafes for that something that reminds you of back home.

Now the all-important paragraph - what to do in Takayama. This 'site will give you access to the Takayama Practicle Guide Map (English) and, as you can see, there is not a shortage of sights to see/experience. 
 Something I have never come-across, until I visited Takayama, is this system of "Tourist Guides". These people, identifiable by these yellow & black armbands, stroll throughout the "Old Streets" and are more-than-happy to help you with any inquiries you may have. Although this service is free, it would be courteous of you to pay their costs (on a recent visit to Takayama, a guide gave us a very-personal tour of Takayama-jinya). The streets are also very well signposted and maps are available everywhere you go, and in many different languages. My tip is don't try to cram too much into your day. Take it casually and experience what you are visiting without rushing it. 

Sanmachi.

If you are an early-bird, then head off down to the Morning Market (6am-to-noon), in the area around Takayama-jinya. This is one of the largest markets of it's kind in Japan and has been in operation for over 300-years. Then, after you have purchased some fresh fruit or a souvenir (or two), pop-around the corner to the Sanmachi Village. These old houses, dating back to the Edo Period, have been faithfully restored to their (almost) original state. Don't be in a hurry. There are so many wee gems of shops to discover and you never know what you will find.

Fukyuan Cafe.
Map Location.

   By now your stomach is sending you a message - "I'm hungry". The Fukyuan Cafe is located off a side-street, that itself is off a side-street that is off the main street (check the map for location) and is a quaint wee establishment that sells, apart from great coffee, small trinkets e.t.c. It has an English menu and specializes in Japanese sweets. While here, take the time to plan the remainder of your day. If you want to experience more of the historical aspect of Hida-Takayama, I would recommend the Takayama Local History Museum, or the Higashiyama Temple Area or Takayama-jinya.

If you are a fellow "outdoorholic", like myself, and you have packed your hiking, mountain-biking or skiing gear for your vacation, all I can say is - "Welcome to Paradise". Hida-Takayama is nestled-amongst the Hida Mountains, which themselves are encompassed by the Japanese Alps. Whatever your fancy - a stroll amongst nature, off-the-beaten-track, hair-raising - there is sure to be something here to satisfy your addiction. If you want to do you own thing, then surf-through Diddlefinger Maps-Japan. Using "Google Maps", this 'site uses English for place-names, in place of Kanji (in most cases). But, if you want something more organized/planned, let me recommend two - 

The Goshikigahara Hermit Road,  situated in the foothills of magnificent Mt Norikura (Map Location), provides the hiker with three options to explore the "luxurious nature which has not been explored for a long time". For a small fee, you will be provided with a guide and will include bus-fare in the park as-well-as guide book. The tour is limited to two persons with a maximum of ten.  

 Could you imagine yourself taking a guided bike-ride through the magnificent scenery of Hida-Furukawa (image on right)? Well, with the guys at Hida Satoyama Cycling, you can do just that. This is one of the best ways to discover the scenic Japanese countryside. Hida-Furukawa is just a 15-minute train-ride from Takayama and, with scenery like this, you won't want to leave. This is the "real" Japan.

Check-out more of the area at Satoyama Experience. 

   Now if this image on the right turns you on, and you are keen to check-out the local slopes, Takayama is the place. This website - Skiing and Snowboarding. - should be of use. 
   I have covered many activities for you to see/experience in Hida-Takayama. Unfortunately I have had to omit mentioning many (maybe that will give you an idea of what is available) but, if you surf-through some of the websites attached, I am sure you will find something that will satisfy your tastes. 


   I would like to take this opportunity to acknowledge those who have allowed me to use their websites and images in this blog. 

   

Hida-Takayama - History.

Flag of Takayama.

    Throughout this blog, plus the following blogs attached to this title, I refer to the area as Hida-Takayama and Takayama. To allay any confusion, they are both the same place. Many of the towns & cities in this area use the term Hida  as part of their name, which dates back before the modern Prefecture System was established in Japan. Prior to that the country was divided-up into Tens of Kuni (countries).

Statuette
of 
Ryomen Sukuna.

Where better to start this series about Hida-Takayama, than with it's history. And what a history it is. There is evidence that the area was settled as far back as the Jomon Period,  from about 300 BC-to-538 AD, where the culture of Takayama was  characterized by the unique patterns on their Earthenware. According to the Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan, edited in 720 AD) a head of the powerful regional clan, Ryomen Sukuna, was defeated by the army of the Imperial Court in 377 AD. The image on the left is a wooden statue of him, created by Enku, a Buddhist Monk at the Zenko-ji Temple ( We visited this complex back in 2003 during a tour of the area).

Three storied Pagoda
Hida Kokubun-ji Temple.

   Lets come forward to the Nara Period (710 AD-to-794 AD). Because the inhabitants of Takayama were best known for their architectural and carpentry skills, the then central government made a law where 10-men in every 50 households were assigned to work in the capitol city to build Palaces, Gates and Temples ( approximately 100 men went to the capitol every year).
   In the image on the right, is the Three Storied Pagoda that stands in the grounds of Hida Kokubun-ji Temple. The original temple was constructed in 746 Ad by Emperor Shomu (710 AD-to756 AD). Shomu, a devout Buddhist, is credited with establishing the system of Provincial Temples back in 741 AD.

   From 794 AD-to-1573 (the Heian Period to Sengoku Period) Japan, as a nation, went through many changes. In Hida, during the Heian period, the area was governed by the Heike Clan  (Taira was a heredity clan name bestowed by the emperors to certain ex-members of the imperial family when they became subjects) but soon after, during the Kamakura Period (1185-to-1333) the political center was moved to the Kokufucho Area of Northern-Takayama. During the Muromachi Period (1337-to-1573) Lord Taga Tokugen constructed Tenjinyama, Tagayama Castle.

Map Location.

In the Iesyou Era ( 1504-to-1520) Takayama Geki constructed another castle on Mt Tenjin and, from this time, people started calling the area Takayama. Also during this time, Japan's History was going through a time of social upheaval, political intrigue and (nearly) constant military conflict. The era also became known as the "Warring States period". 

Kanamori Nagachika

Let me now introduce you to Kanamori Nagachika, Lord of Hida, who, along with his clan, ruled over the region for 107-years and over six generations, from 1586-to-1692. Nagachike started to build Takayama Castle in 1588 and took almost 16-years to complete. It was considered to be one of the best five castles in Japan. He also devoted his time in the construction of the castle town; the elevated ground surrounding the castle was assigned for Samurai houses while the lower area was for ordinary townsfolk.

Tokugawa Ieyasu

   From 1692-to-1868, during the period when Takayama was under direct control of the Edo Shogunate, the castle, by order of the Shogunate, was destroyed. Today, Shiroyama Park houses the ruins of Takayama Castle and is designated a "Historical Site" and "National Monument".

Meiji Promulgation.

      In this final paragraph covering Hida-Takayama's history, we cover the period from the Meiji Period, or what is sometimes referred to as the Meiji Restoration, (1868-to-1912) to the present day. In 1875 the modern municipality system was introduced throughout Japan and Takayama-cho was formed making it the town with the largest population in Gifu Prefecture. A new modern municipality was introduced when Takayama's population reached 15,385 in 1889. Over the years Takayama City has merged with some 14 towns (-cho) and villages (-mura) throughout the area, the latest being in 2005. 
   Hida-Takayama, like many other cities and towns throughout Japan, has gone to great lengths to preserve and protect their historic past. With regards to the local architecture, there are many sites within the area I could mention ( I mentioned Hida-Kokubun-ji Temple earlier ) but, because there are so many, I can only include one more. 

Map Location.

    Takayama-jinya ( Prefectural and District Governors office), was constructed as a mansion for Lord Kanamori (ruler of the Hida-Takayama Han) however, after the Bakafu Government sought to bring Hida under it's direct control in 1629, it was rebuilt by Ina Tadaatsu to serve as offices for the local deputy administrator. After 1777 it became the local government office. In 1929 it was designated an historical landmark. To learn more of Takayama Architecture, check-out this page from Takayama Guide.
   Festivals is another area Hida-Takayama has gone to great lengths to preserve. If you check-out this "Event Calendar" you will notice that a month doesn't pass without a festival or event taking place. 

Matsuri Float.

The biggest event on the Takayama calendar would be the "Takayama Festivals". Regarded as one of the three most beautiful events in Japan, the festival is held every year on April 14th & 15th (Spring Takayama Festival) and October 9th & 10th (Autumn Takayama Festival). The origins of the festivals are unknown but this link may go someway to  explaining the Background of the Takayama Matsuri or Festival. 

Sake Festival.

   I'm going to squeeze-in one more festival. One I am sure you will be interested in (well I would be) and, the beauty of this festival, it takes-place on most days of the year. It's the festival quite simply known as, the Sake Brewery. I don't think there is much more I can say about this festival than KANPAI.
   In my next blog on Hida-Takayama, I will write about what is available for the visitor to see & experience. And let me warn you, there is plenty. The image below is just a taste.

Hida-no-Sato.
(Hida Folk Village).

   I would like to take this opportunity to acknowledge the many websites and images I have used in composing this blog. 

INOU Atlas.

   Back in early March I made my first attempt at a book review ("A Ride In The Neon Sun" by Josie Dew.). This post is my first attempt at a product review.
   A few weeks ago I was gifted a cycling device (or a new toy for my bike) to test by a friend who is a representative for "CATEYE" . Many of us have seen their products at cycle-shops and some of us use their products - my lights and cycle-computer are both from CATEYE. 

CATEYE - INOU.

   The "INOU", which is CATEYE's newest gadget on the market, was named after a famous Japanese Surveyor & Cartographer, Ino Tadataka, who is credited with completing the first map of Japan using modern technology.
   For some years now I have been pondering with the idea of adding a Hand-held G.P.S. device to my "toy-collection" then, to add to my woes, my video-camera went on the blink and I couldn't upload video images of my outings. But, as fate would have it, I met this guy when out cycling one day ( this is the story behind the meeting) who introduced me to the CATEYE Rep. 
   I am very impressed with this gadget and, before I begin to sing-it's praises, I'm  going to explain what it does and it's specifications. This is a G.P.S./Video/Still-Camera all in one and is ideal for use in the "Great Outdoors". The package runs on two AAA-size batteries (I recommend the use of rechargeable batteries) and comes with two "Micro SD cards (each holding 1GB) plus SD Card adapter. Also included are two straps/mounts - one for your cycle-handlebar and one for your cycle-helmet & back-pack (I will include trips with the device mounted in different locations later in this post). Also included is a detailed instruction & specification document. The G.P.S. records your speed, distance, time and elevation and, whenever you take a video/photo, the image is logged at your current location. The camera has a resolution of 640x480-Pixels and captures between 30 - 15 frames per second.If you don't want to take photos manually, then the  device can be set to capture & log a photo every 1-minute, 2-minutes, 5-minutes and 10-minutes (this is done via the "INOU Sync download).

   To download all this information, you need to create your page on the "INOU Atlas website". 

Then you have to download the "INOU Sync" software (the device is Windows XP SP3/Vista/7 and Mak OS 2.4 or later compatible) and your'e all ready to go.
   Okay, enough of the specifications. Time to show-off what this wee beauty does. When you click-onto the links to view my trips a map will appear with the course highlighted and photo and video locations marked with an icon. If you click on the "Display Graph" icon, details of the trip will appear - speed, altitude, distance and time.

Handlebar Mounted.

With my INOU, Cycle-Computer and Lights strapped onto the handlebar, I often wonder if I'm not becoming a "gadget-junkie" (warning; if your handlebar looks like this, you also need to be paying attention to your environment - traffic, walkers & other cyclists).
   "Off-Roading in the Sakai-cho Area" - this is my inaugural outing and I was keen to test the device and, where better, than the hills of Sakai Town. I was very impressed with how this trip came out.

Helmet Mounted.

Today, Monday 23rd April, I tested the Helmet Mount on another of my favorite courses - "Yawata-ohashi to Heian-jingu" in Kyoto City. As you will see it hasn't turned-out perfect, especially the still photos (although I am impressed with the video segments). My thoughts regarding this position is that it can be a distraction to the rider and, as a consequence, dangerous. So rider be warned.

Backpack Mounted.

Now for the big test - hiking. And this was the icing-on-the-cake of what was a great day - great course, great scenery and great company. The area between Kamikoma Station and Kamo Station is full of history, secluded villages, with a Temple & Shrine thrown-in for good measure (and not to forget some castle ruins). To hike with my INOU strapped-onto my backpack freed-up my hands for other uses - carrying a hiking-pole, removing branches off the track, taking a drink to name a few.
   The INOU doesn't have a viewfinder or monitor to view your location and video/photos, nor does it have sound. I wouldn't rate this as a big minus, but I daresay the folks down at CATEYE will be taking that into consideration when designing their new model. The microSD cards only hold 1GB information and, as I found out during my Kyoto trip, it is easy to run-out of space. No problem, a 4GB, 8GB, 16GB & 36GB card is available on the market. With fully charged batteries you will get about 6.5-hours of G.P.S. recording but, as you use the camera(s), that will lesson somewhat (if while out on a ride/hike, and your batteries run flat and you replace them, a new trip will be recorded). To compensate for this, I don't commence recording until I begin my course. 
   I will enclose a couple of videos, courtesy of "CATEYE" and "Youtube" to check-out - Cateye INOU Quick Start (video instruction) and CatEye and INOU Social Network.
   Since commencing this post I have made good use of my "INOU" and, if you have the time, I invite you to view them - Nagaokakyo-shi to Takatsuki-shi - and - Kizu-eki to Kamo-eki.

                                                                                                

Hanami 2012.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   I love Spring. For me, the beginning of the season means new life. After months, where most lifeforms have laid dormant ( that's excluding the one-or-two outdoorsy people), and members of the animal community have been in hibernation, everything seems to come to life. And here in Japan, the sight of the Sakura in full bloom heralds-in my favorite Japanese custom - Hanami. During the small window available to celebrate Hanami (7-to-10 days) the alcohol and Bento sales skyrocket as devotees head for their favorite spot and celebrate (one such group I saw back in 2007, had 5-kegs of beer, a fridge, generator, enough food to feed an army).

Hanami 2005.
Location.

I remember my first Hanami, back in 2005, when we went to an area in Yawata City. It was perfect - cool blue skies, vivid-white blossoms, copious amounts of food and alcohol, great company - and I came away with a sense of anticipation for future years and, with the eight Hanami I have celebrated in Japan, I am yet to be disappointed. Over those 8-years I have celebrated the occasion in five different locations with this year being slightly different from the past - I celebrated three Hanami. 

Celebrating Hanami
With
Motokazu-san and Hugo-san.

   On Thursday 12th April I joined my friends Motokazu-san and Hugo for a picnic on the grounds of Fushimi-Momoyama Castle. Hugo and I visited the complex a few months ago and were very impressed and decided to return for the occasion. Well stocked with food and beverage, we spent several hours chatting and taking-in the view. And what a view it was - 

Fushimi-Momoyama Castle.
Location.

   Could you imagine a better view to relax with, than a castle? I don't think so. The castle grounds were awash with color and, as the day wore-on (and before the alcohol took it's toll) we took a walk with cameras in hand, and the following are some of the images captured.

Fushimi-Momoyama Castle
Main Tower.

   The main tower was difficult to photo due to it's size, plus we weren't able to get far-enough away to capture it. 

Pond and Bridge.

   As we strolled about the grounds, we took a path that eventually brought us to a pond with a quaint wee bridge, with the castle in the background.

My Wife and I
in Kyoto.

    On the third Hanami,on Sunday 15th,I found myself sharing the occasion with my wife and mother-in-law as we strolled-along Kadono Nakadori, an avenue of Sakura that line a stream in Kyoto City.

Kadono Nakadori.
Location.

As is always the case, when the Sakura are in bloom, it rains and the blossoms don't stay on the tree for long (as can be seen in the image) but it doesn't stop families/groups from coming out.

Hanami in Kyoto.

   The next anniversary on the Japanese Holiday calendar is Tango no Sekku (Children's Day) where respect for Children and their happiness is celebrated. What makes this event spectacular is all through the community Koinobori (Carp Streamers) are hung - outside homes, across rivers, as in the image below.

Koinobori (Carp Streamers).

Tango no Sekku is one of several anniversaries  that make up the holiday period known as "Golden Week"  and, let me tell you, it is a very busy time. It is a time many holiday-makers travel (my first trip to Japan, in 2000, was during "Golden Week"), but for me, I will be spending the time chilling-out at the "Takatsuki Jazz Street Festival".

The Tsubaiotsukayama Kofun.

   I was in the Kamikoma area of Yamashiro Town on one of my "no plan/getting lost" outings recently when I happened-across something that  left me with a curious taste in my mouth. I was cycling along a lane that bordered the residential area from the forest/hilly area on the eastern side of Route-24. 

Map Location.

I soon approached a reservoir and, as I was in no particular hurry, I decided to take-a-break and have a banana while taking-in the nearby scenery (there was also a cold wind blowing and the shelter came as a nice respite). I have traveled this lane many times but, on this occasion, I couldn't help notice a narrow track leading-into the bush behind me. Curious, I decided to investigate. 

Map Location.

Before long I soon found myself bush-bashing along a muddy, rutted track through a dense bamboo forest (my kinda' environment). 2km later I emerged into one of the many isolated villages that dot this area.

Map Location.

Unsure of where I was I decided to go in search of a site where I could get a good view of my surroundings. My attention was drawn to a knob (on the right in the image) that would best suit my purposes. 

Map Location.

   To get there I had to weave my way through the many narrow lanes that make up villages such as this.

My destination.
Map Location.

Before long my destination was in sight and, after ascending some steps, I found myself atop my hill which reminded me of One Tree Hill in Auckland City, Aotearoa. 

Map Location.

From the summit I was treated to a commanding view of the Yamashiro-cho area.

Ikoma-yama (Mt Ikoma).

  In the distance was Mt Ikoma and, in the foreground, was the Kizugawa River. 

Map Location.

To the rear I could see the track I had just emerged from 10-minutes prior.

Information Notice.

But it was this notice that really caught my attention and, with my curiosity beginning to surface, I decided to have it translated so as to shine some light into what it was that I was  standing-on.
   With the assistance of two of my friends (who's expertise in translating Kanji into English knows no bounds) and the nice people at the Yamashiro Regional Museum, I was informed that I was standing-upon the Tsubaiotsukayama Kofun, or Tumulus or Burial Mounds as they are also known. The Kofun were all the rage between the early 3rd century and the early 7th century. This one, it is believed, was built in the late 3rd century, and thus dates from the era of Yamataikoku, which was a kingdom of prehistoric Japan and which was mentioned in Chinese annuals, and might be the same as Yamato, which was later in the Japanese annals. 
   My enquiries failed to ascertain who, if anyone, was buried here but, in 1953, during an archaeological excavation, nearly 40 bronzed mirrors, including 30 god-beast mirrors, were found along with various other things. There is strong theory the god-beast mirrors were mirrors that Himiko, the Shamaness-Queen  of Yamatai recorded in the Chinese annals, is believed to have received them as a gift from the Ruler of a Chinese Ethnic Group.

Mozu Kofugun, Osaka.
Location

It is difficult to imagine what this Kofun looked-like 1,700 years-ago, maybe like the one in the image on the left. But today, if it weren't for the information-board, one wouldn't know what they were standing on. 

Tsubaiotsukayama Kofun.

In the image on the right, which I managed to photo, is of the tomb as it (may have) appeared at the time of construction, with (my) markings of how it looks today.

J.R.Nara Line.

Through the middle of the mound (marked with -) runs the J.R. Nara Rail-Line (the gentleman standing there is a train enthusiast with camera in hand). You can see the steps (marked with +) leading up to the summit (the lane I cycled to get to the mound is marked with =). If you look at this Satellite Image of Tsubaiotsukayama Kofun you will get a better impression of how the mound looks today. 

Location.

Hidden-away, on the bottom right of the Kofun, is a monument dedicated to the Tsubaiotsukayama Kofun (marked with #). It just stands there in an empty section with the village surrounding it. I am somewhat saddened by this. With all the restoration and preservation work that has been done on old sites around Japan - Shrines, Temples and Castles to name a few - and the many UNESCO and National Treasures of Japan, this one has been forgotten and sits unnoticed.
   All-in-all this turned-out to be another great outing and, if any further information comes-to-hand, I won't hesitate to pass it on. In the mean time, I plan to do more research into the Yamashiro area as I feel there are more wee secrets to be revealed. Watch this space. 
   Some more interesting reading; Kofun Culture, Japanese Bronze Mirrors,Yamato Province, Kofun in the Nara Basin.

"A Ride In The Neon Sun" - Josie Dew.

   This is my first attempt at a book review, so please forgive my amateurish attempt and bear-with-me while I tell you about a great book I have just completed reading. The book, needless-to-say, is about an area of the great-outdoors that is very dear to me, cycling, or, in this instance, cycle-touring. I discovered this book at Green e Books in Kyoto City (the trip I later wrote about in a blog titled - "Bookride to Kyoto").
   "A Ride In The Neon Sun", by Josie Dew, I would have to say is the best reading investment I have made for many-a-year and, at just ￥300, the most economical. I love these types of books. I get an immense amount of joy reading of others exploits, especially when the topic is the great-outdoors.
   Bicycle Touring is one of the best (if not the best) ways to see/experience a land/country, and Josie Dew has done plenty of touring with seven books to her credit.

   "A Ride In The Neon Sun", published in 1999, is Josie's first experience of cycle-touring in Japan (she was to return 2-years later, "The Sun In My Eyes" chronicling this trip). The book could be divided into two parts - Josie's experiences, and an insight into Japan - with both being covered with her delightful sense-of-humor. 
   My loyalties, as to whether I was going to like this book were tested early when, on page-8, it was revealed that Josie was originally planning on touring New-Zealand but (something she is not so sure how it happened) she ended-up in Japan instead ( all was not lost, she did venture "down-under" and, as a result of her experience, published "Long Cloud Ride" in 2007). 
   The book reminded me of the month I spent cycle-touring around Ireland back in 1993 - alone, keeping-off the main road, following the coastline, dossing-down in cheap out-of-town hostels (as I wasn't carrying any camping gear, I couldn't camp in places as Josie did) and connecting with the locals. I also experienced the agonies, pains, inconveniences (rain, wind, heat, motorists, tunnels, cycle repairs) but, at the end of the day, I would do it all again.
   Josie commenced her ride while Japan was experiencing the most severe "Tsuyu (Rainy Season)" in 50+-years and, all through this, she continued on her merry way. Then, just as she thought she had survived one weather extreme, she experienced another - the Japanese Summer. Here there are two ways to describe summer - very-hot and extremely-hot - and, when one is out experiencing the great-outdoors on bike, you need copious amounts of fluid. But, if two weather extremes weren't enough, as she traveled-through the Nansei Islands the "Typhoon Season" was about to make her life more hazardous, and unpleasant.
   For the non-outdoorholic (or even the casual cyclists) there will be many questions you will be asking yourself as you leaf-through this book - Why? Are you crazy/mad?  But imagine this; you have been on the road all day, you have discovered this idyllic spot to pitch your tent (location), you set-up camp and put-on-a-brew, then you take-in the scene - overlooking Cape Satamisaki with Kaimondake Volcano (Location) in the distance. Is this heaven or what! 

Sunset at
Kaimondake Volcano

Location.

   Throughout this book Josie also gives the reader an insight into Japan and the Japanese people (after living here for 7-years, there were things explained here that I didn't realize) in Layman's Terms, that helps one appreciate the many customs associated with everyday life here. Take for instance the ritual surrounding gift-giving and gift-receiving; when receiving a gift, the recipient has to refuse it. The giver then offers it a second time where it is duly refused again. On the third time, the recipient then accepts it. But, if, after the first or second round the gift isn't re-offered, it means the giver didn't genuinely want you to have it.
   One of the most comical moments in the book happened as Josie was cycling  in the Ooigawa (Ooi River) area in Shizuoka Prefecture; "That night, as I threaded my way through a rainy confusion of coastal backstreets, I washed up at a hotel called Pink River". Up to this stage I had been reading in anticipation of when Josie would experience the Japanese phenomenon of the Love Hotel. ".....there was no reception, no receptionist, no people - just a dingy booth with a wall-mounted door-phone.....". " Laden down with waterlogged panniers in hand I fumbled with the key and flung open the door with my foot and stepped into a rocket" - Images of a Japanese Love Hotel.
   After commencing her trip at Tokyo and cycling down the Pacific Coast to Wakayama City (she avoided Nagoya City by taking a ferry at Cape Irako (map), at the mouth if Ise Bay, to Toba (map) on the Kii Peninsula) Josie took the ferry over to Shikoku. After partly navigating the island prefecture, another ferry-ride took her to Kyushu where, after just a few days of experiencing this prefecture, she was off to the Nansei Islands and the dreaded Habu. I can't stand snakes and, reading the stories of the locals regarding these reptiles, has put me off visiting this area. Her description of her travels here though, makes me feel envious and a need to venture south, venomous reptiles and all. But sadly her stay here was to be cut short, when she received news from back home in England and, within a few short days, she was at the port of Hyuga, on the east coast of Kyushu, waiting for a ship to return her to Tokyo (she did manage to get a look-around the Kumamoto Area and Mt Aso before her departure).  
   My next move is to seek-out (no this is not "Star Trek") a copy of "The Sun In My Eyes"  ( or any other of her books for that matter) so I can read more of her exploits in Japan.

Josie Dew & Friend.

   I would like to take this opportunity to thank Josie for allowing me to quote excerpts from her book and giving me, and I hope a good many other "Outdoorholics", the opportunity to appreciate this incredible piece-of-rock we inhabit through her words. Josie, domoarigatogozaimasu.  
   
   This now brings me to my ulterior motive for composing this post. That is to encourage as many people as possible to get-out and experience the great outdoors. You don't have to do what the Josie's of this world do (although I'm sure you won't regret it) , all you have to do is, instead of hopping in your car, put some shoes/boots on or get on your bike and do it.