A "Claytons" Blog.

Bottle of Claytons.

   "So whats a Claytons Blog anyway"? you're asking yourself. Well it has nothing to do with the Great Outdoors (unless you have packed a bottle in with your gear. But, as it's non-alcoholic,why would you want to take a bottle of this stuff along with you anyway?). To explain, I shall let the guys at Wikipedia put you in the frame - take note of the sentence "...the drink you have when you're not having a drink". If you're still confused, let me explain; this is a blog I'm composing that's not a blog.
   I have discovered that it has been 2-months since my last contribution to the blogging community. I must apologize for this. I appreciate some of you guys out there have become insomniacs as a result of this dry-spell, but there is a reason why (well actually there are several). This summer has been one of the most severest in Japans history (or since weather/climate information has been recorded) and, after a close-call a month or so ago, I decided to err on the side of caution and go-out on short expeditions only. Then there was work (that horrible 4-letter word) that has kept me off the scene. But, it's not to say I have forgotten about you guys. I have a couple of blogs in the pipeline that I am working-on (actually I was all set last Saturday,1st Sept', to complete my research,when "Mother Nature" intervened and it pissed-with-rain). So, let me assure you, I haven't fallen-off the face of the Earth. 

Map/Location.

   And, to prove I am still in the "Land-of-the-Living", here I am at precisely (or thereabouts) 09:35 on Sunday 2nd September 2012. I look good, don't I? Well actually I was knackered. At this point I was 37km into a 91-km ride. But, for the previous 1km, I had to lug my bike (and myself as well) up a creek (oh the joys of off-road cycling). It was close to this point, about 6-weeks ago, that I collapsed with heat-stroke and had to cool-down (it was only 10:30 and already in the mid-30c).
   In my post, "In Search of Shoryaku-ji Temple", I mentioned "....the track leading me to this spot looked very-inviting and may require further investigation on a later visit". Well, this is that trip. I have been planning this outing for a few weeks now but, thanks to one thing or another, I just never got-around to it. 

Map/Location.

    I always make a bee-line for this spot, on the border of Nara Park (it's a 2.5-hour x 28km ride to get to this point), where I can take on some water and munch on a banana before setting off. Today's course, Nara Park to the Kizugawa Cycleway (this is a great 'site for logging outings as it records elevation, distance & course, as-well-as posting images) is undulating and with the first 10km being relatively flat, I am aware of some hilly terrain ahead. As I am in "tourist mode", I want to take-in as much of the surrounding scenery as I can, like in this image on the right.

Map/Location.

I am passing-through the settlement of Kitatsubaocho and the rice is beginning to brown off before it's harvested, in about another months time. This area is used mainly for rice and is a spectacular sight, regardless of what stage the rice is at.
As I begin to put my camera away, I discover this set of Jizo behind me. One will find these anywhere/everywhere and are a delight to encounter.

Map/Location.

1,500-meters up the road is the magnificent complex of Shoryaku-ji Temple. Unlike the last time I was here, where I spent the best part of 2-hours, this time I am just passing-through. I have some uncharted territory ahead and I needed to be prepared for what was about to greet me and, believe me, I was in for a grunt of a climb. 

Map/Location.

Out of the forest and back onto a decent sealed road before my next destination - a 185-year old Japanese tea-House. If you check on the map link (just below the image) you will see how isolated this place is. The proprietor is the 6th generation of his family to have run this establishment, and is popular with hikers coming through this area. From here I join the "Nara Okuyama Driveway" (albeit for 1.5km), a toll-road that takes drivers through the dense Kasugayama Primeval Forest overlooking Nara City, and the opportunity to top-up with clean-fresh water. 

Map/Location.

    I have passed this junction several times over the years and I never payed much attention to the bridge and where the track lead to. On this occasion I decided to include this track in my plans. And I am so glad I did, as I was in for a treat.

The Uguisunotaki Falls.
Map/Location.

  About 700m from the junction I discovered the ideal location to break for lunch - the Uguisunotaki Waterfalls. Parking my bike, then taking the steps for 100m, I was able to dine amongst my favorite environment - running-water, the surrounding forest, bird-song - oh how I was in heaven. If I was in a brave mood, I might have stripped-off and took a well deserved shower (luckily I didn't as I was soon joined by a couple of love-birds (example-2)). Lunch, which consisted of an 8-pack of bread-rolls, is always a good opportunity to do a map check of my current location and prepare for the remainder of my trip. I estimated I am about mid-way through and am also aware of some more hill-climbing ahead. With the time being about midday, I was also conscience of the heat. 

Stairway to........

Belfry at Koufuku-ji temple.
Map/Location.

Returning to my bike I discovered another set of steps. So, with time on my side, I decided to check-out where they led to. Five minutes later I arrive at Koufuku-ji Temple (not to be confused with the famous Koufuku-ji Temple in the grounds of Nara Park. But,in saying that, there may be some link between the two. If I am able to gather information, I won't hesitate to share with you) with a quaint wee belfry on the left and.... 

Concrete Torii
and
Chozuya

     ....a Torii and Chozuya opposite. Normally these structures signify the entrance to Temple/Shrine, but all I could see were ruins behind a fenced-off area. This now requires a return visit to gather more information, maybe on foot.
   Soon after I was back-on-the-road-again (in this case a rutted-muddy track) and passing-through the village of Sonodacho. From here it was onto the familiar territory of Kamocho (Kamo Town). This time last year I spent several weeks cycling and discovering the many settlements and lanes than make-up this very beautiful area of Kizugawa City. 
   With 6km to go before I arrived at the end of this segment of my day, I changed-into cruise control and allowed myself the luxury to conserve my energy (Once reconnecting to the Kizugawa Cycleway, I still had 25km before home). On a good day, cycling along the Kizugawa can be a Piece-of-piss but, on a bad day, it can be hell. 25km can seem like 100km. On this day I only experienced two downpours but, what the hell, I was wet with perspiration anyway.
   Six-and-a-half hours after leaving home, I arrived back buzzing-with-joy at having experienced another great ride. After several weeks of no outings like this, it was good to be back into the groove again. Lets hope it's not another long spell before my next venture.
                                          Happy Cycling Everyone. 

In Search Of Shoryaku-ji Temple.

Shoryaku-ji
In Autumn.

                                  History of Shoryaku-ji.
   Shoryaku-ji (the suffix "ji" means Temple) was founded by the Priest   Kenshun, a son of Kaneie Fujiwara (the Prime Minister of the day) and was constructed by edict of Emperor Ichijo in 992AD. Upon completion the complex consisted of some 86 buildings - a large Temple, Halls and Pagodas - but, after several fires over the years, all that remain today is the Main Hall, Shoro (Belfry) and Fukujyuin (Guest Palace).

Bronze image of Yakusi-nyorai.

The Fukujyuin Temple houses many Buddhist artifacts, including this bronze image of Buddha Yakusi-nyorai, made in the 7th century. The image has been designated a National Cultural Asset.
   Shoryaku-ji is also famous for the Autumn colors that adorn the many trees surrounding the complex (as in the above image) and also has the distinction of being the first place to produce Refined Sake.

Map Location.

   Those of you that read my post on the SamaSama Beer Garden (If you didn't, now is your opportunity, it's an excellent piece of literature if I say so myself) will remember this image. It was here, while resting my bike against a signpost, that I noticed the placard advertising the facility. But there was another signpost that also attracted my attention.

It was this sign, giving wary travelers directions to Shoryaku-ji Temple. I took note of the temple's name and, when I returned home, began surfing-the-internet for any information. Within a short time I was placing this destination on my "Must See" list. Some of the images I found astounded me and, on top of that, it's location - tucked-away in the hills overlooking the Obitoke area of Nara City.
Before long I was mapping a circular-course (beginning/ending at the signpost) that would allow me the opportunity to experience some of the great Japanese rural scenery that I like so much, as-well-as some of the local history. I estimated my course to be around 6km long but, what I didn't take into account, was the four deviations I would come-across along the way.
              So, without any further-ado, lets go in search of Shoryaku-ji.

Tumulus Pond.
Map Location.

500-meters into my walk and I encountered my first deviation. The distinctive vermillion-colored Torii in the distance was a lure for me to investigate.

Map Location.

With the help of a noticeboard, and the assistance of my dear wife, I discovered that this is a Tumulus Pond and, where the Torii are located, is the Ookawaike Kofun. Within this area are five kofun, the most famous being the Itsutsuzuka-Tomb (sorry,unable to find any information). 

Map Location.

Back onto the sealed-road again, and some of the great rural scenery I mentioned earlier. In the past weeks the rice has been planted and, for the first few weeks, the fields are flooded which makes for some very beautiful photo opportunities. But also, when you are this isolated, the beauty is added-to with the serenity of the area. 

Roadside Jizo.

As I make my way up the valley I pass the occasional roadside Jizo Bodhisattva. One can come-across these everywhere and in some of the most unlikely places. They are one of the most beloved of all the Japanese Divinities. One of their (many) purposes is to protect children, expectant-mothers, firemen and travelers. 

Map Location.

Also, as I make my way up the valley, I notice at intervals along the way these posters tied to roadside fences & barriers. Judging by the art they were created by children and their content indicates they were put there to dissuade people from disposing of their rubbish.The one in the image on the right, I thought the best. 

Video.
Map Location.

I am about to enter the forest and leave the sealed-road behind. This is my kinda' environment and I am at home here with the sound of the water flowing down the stream, the calls of the different species of birds, the trees creaking as they rub against each other in the wind. A couple-of-weeks ago this area was struck by a severe typhoon. Severe, in as much of the amount of water it dumped on the ground, and evidence of the rain is still visible. The sign is informing me that Shoryaku-ji is just 700-meters away.

Video.

   Out of the bush, and back to civilization. The signpost is informing me that I am within reach of Shoryaku-ji as-well-as giving me directions the where I have just come from and where my next destination will be (after I have completed my tour of the area).
   As I step-onto the road I get my first glimpse of Shoryaku-ji. Within seconds I begin to get a feeling for what this place must look like in Autumn.

    This must be an artists heaven, and that is regardless of genre. With all the Autumn images I have seen of Shoryaku-ji, I will be placing this destination on my "Must return" list. After perusing a nearby noticeboard, with map of the complex, my plan is to wander to the top and work my way down. The feeling I am getting at this early stage, is that the complex will require at least an hour to cover (little did I know, it would be nearer two-hours).

Video.
Map Location.

   My first stop is this little temple nestled-amongst the forest (the track leading me to this spot looked very-inviting and may require further investigation, on a later visit) that has a stream flowing past on the right. In the distance is a bridge with waterfall behind it. All very picturesque.

Stone Buddha Images
with
Belfry.

    

Just a few meters down from the small temple is a collection of Stone Buddhist Images (there is another impressive display further-down the road that offered a better opportunity to photo) and, up in amongst the trees, is a belfry. To access the upper compound, one has to ascend some eighty steps (80-steps may not seem many, but, on a hot day, they can be quite a chore to climb).

Shoryaku-ji Head Hall.
(Main Hall).

 Upon arrival you are greeted with this magnificent structure and, regardless of the time of year you visit this complex, this would remain an image etched in ones memory for some time to come.
   There are not many buildings to see in this location, but, what is here, is well worth the effort to experience.

Belfry.

Map Location.

I will let this video give you an idea of the beauty and serenity of the site - Video of Main Hall and Belfry.

Pond
and
Small Shrine.

It is difficult today to conceive of the life of by-gone times and, what remains here, does little to remind us of Shoryakuji's glorious past.
   Now, onto the highlight of my visit to Shoryaku-ji, the Fukujyuin Temple. Designated a "National Cultural Asset" for it's Kyakuden's (Guest Palace) architectural style of the 17th-century, it has the Kokerabkui roof which consists of layered wooden shingles.

Gate, entrance to
Fukujyuin Temple.

As you stroll from the Main Hall area to the entrance to Fukujyuin Temple, the Bodaisen River meanders through the grounds and is partly camouflaged by the overhanging trees.

Fukujyuin Temple.

Please remember, when entering a temple, to remove your footwear. It's not until you enter the temple proper you realize the beauty that will unfold as you wander about the building. I was very-privileged to have been given a personal tour by the priest and was taken to see some of the many treasures that are housed here. All very precious and old (most dating-back many centuries). The most impressive was the "Sentai Jizo-bosatsu" with it's 1,007 carved miniature bodhisattivas' (all about 2cm in height).

One of the
"Four Seasons"
paintings
by
Painter Eino Kano.

Throughout the drawing-room are many paintings by Eino Kano, one of the representative painters of the 17th-century (you may be getting the idea by now, how my planned one-hour visit, was turning-into a two-hour visit). If the interior wasn't enough to capture my attention, then the exterior was just .............. (sorry,I can't find the right word to express my feelings. Maybe this image will give you a better idea).

Could you imagine a better view out of your drawing-room? I couldn't. I was able to capture some images on my video camera - Inside Fukujyuin Temple.
   Time to put my boots back on and grab my pack and hit-the-road. I was so grateful for the personal attention the priest gave me in showing me parts of the temple not many would get to see (I forgot to ask him about the Refined Sake Shoryaku-ji is famous for. Oh well, another excuse to return).

   About 500-meters down the road from Shoryaku-ji, was this collection of statues. The two, in the image on the left, are Nakiwarai Jizo. They stand at the foot of two very-tall trees.
   To the left of the jizo statues are a collection of Monk Tomb's. This collection, of which there are two, I found the easiest to photograph. This video will give you a better idea of the area.
   The second of my four deviations was just a stones-throw away when my attention was drawn to this Ryobu-torii, a daiwa torii, set in amongst the bush. This type of torii is distinctive for the four square posts that are used to reinforce the pillars. Those of you who have visited, or seen images of the Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima, will recognize this torii.

Torii, entrance
to
Shingu-jinja Shrine.
Map Location.

    Two down, and my third deviation is just another kilometer away. My original purpose was to find a spot to break for lunch and the track on my right seemed my best opportunity to sit in the shade.

Map Location.

This monument, made-up of many rocks, announced the entrance to the Tsubakimoto-jinja Shrine but, as it required another flight of steps to ascend, and I didn't have the energy to climb, I gave it a miss and pressed-on. No regrets though as this allowed me the opportunity to wander-through the quaint wee village of Kitatsubaocho and this interesting set of Jizo.

Map Location.

  Another kilometer later and I was becoming desperate for a shaded-spot to break for lunch (lunch? It was nearly 2pm,afternoon-tea more like it) so anything that offered me shelter and a place to sit on was fine by me.

 Map Location.

This rock marker on the side of the road gave me hope and, if luck was on my side, would lead me to somewhere to have lunch. The track passed-around the side of someones house (I must admit I was a bit worried that I may have been trespassing) and into the forest.

 Map Location.

The presence of a torii gave me the confidence to press-ahead then, after quite a steep climb, I rounded a corner and was greeted with.......

Torii, entrance
to an
Inari-jinja.
Map Location.

I had stumbled-upon an isolated Inari-jinja (so isolated that, as I rounded the corner, a wild deer scampered-into the bush. If I had been quick I could have taken a photo of it). Oh how delicious my lunch tasted - ham, tomato & cucumber sandwiches washed-down with a hot cup of latte. Then, and the icing-on-the-cake, a glass of nice warm Sake, courtesy of my friend Tanaka-san from Takayama. Domoarigatoogozaimasu Tanaka-san. This is the Video.
   An hour later, and with some reluctance, I made my way back down the path to resume my journey. As I entered the village of Takahicho, I happened-upon this very-unusual clock tower.

 Map Location.

I say unusual as, if I hadn't stopped to check my location, I would have passed this without knowing it was there, and also, it doesn't really resemble a clock tower, but something like a big fence-post.
   From here it was a nice, uneventful, one-kilometer walk back to the starting point and from there onto the J・R Obitoke Station and home. This was a great days outing and it has been a pleasure to share my experience with you. I know there is more in this area for me to explore and, who knows what surprises I shall discover.

I would like to take this opportunity to express my gratitude to the Priest at Shoryaku-ji for giving me his time to show me around Fukujyuin Temple. Also to the photographers, who's  images I have used in this blog. And, last-but-not-least, Tanaka-san for that great bottle of Sake. It was just the tonic for this wary traveler.

   This is a link to my "Ride With G・P・S" page. On this link is the course, along with information such as distance & elevation as-well-as points-of-interest and photos. 

   

SamaSama Beer Garden.

                                                                                                                                                                                           I was on one of my "reconnaissance rides" and had cycled to the southern border of Nara Park (Map Location) in search of the start of the "Yamanobe no Michi Path", a 35km trail that is incorporated into the "Tokaido Road" or, what is known today as the "Tokai Nature Trail". Once I found the start, and the conditions were in my favor - time/distance from home/weather - I decided to check-out the trail. When I reached the point where my cycle-computer was warning me that I was at "that point" (I cycle with the view that, every kilometer you cycle away from base,is 2km you have to cycle to return. In this case my cycle-computer read 35km, which is 70km + to get me home) I decided it was time to turn-around and head for home.

Map Location.

A nearby signpost allowed me the opportunity to lean my bike against while I checked-out my location (the brown post, with the three signs, is for the Yamanobe no Michi Path). It was then that my eyes focused on the placard behind my rear-wheel.

SamaSama Beer Garden.

  What was this? A Beer Garden? Here, in Japan? Here, in such an isolated location? This needed further investigation. The reason why I was so intrigued is that I thought these types of establishments didn't exist in Japan. The only thing that resembles a Beer Garden in Japan is Rooftop Style which are especially popular during Hanabi.

Map Location.

After a quiet ride through this quaint wee village, I arrived at another sign (the sign is on the other side of the road, I thought I would include this rodent in the photo for effect) directing me down a narrow lane. By now I'm beginning to think; "Is this isolated or what"?

SamaSama Beer Garden.
Map Location.

Then, as I cruised down the lane, there it was. 

If the gate and assorted furniture was anything to go by, at the entrance, I was in for a real treat once I went inside. The theme of the establishment is Reggae, if you hadn't already guessed, and is so un-Japanese. 

Mamasan
and
Speakers.

In one corner is a bank of huge speakers (in the right in this image) that pump-out anything reggae.
Then there is the bar. You name it, it's there (this is my kinda' place). The draft beer, or what the Japanese refer to as namabiiru, is especially nice ( as we were to discover a week later).

Bar.

There is also quite an extensive menu at very reasonable prices. 

Mamasan & Daughter
and
Motokazu-san, Hugo & Yours Truly.

A week later I was to return, this time with my hiking friends Motokazu-san and Hugo. Like me, their first reaction was much the same;"This is so un-Japanese" but, once we sat-down with our first beer, we felt at home and totally chilled-out (for the previous 5-hours we had been hiking-along the Yamanobe no Michi Path and it was hot, This is Hugo's video of the days hike and is 10-minutes of Pure Japan Scenery). Three beers and a plate of Tofu & pickles later, we stumbled-out and headed for the J.R. Obitoke Station and home. 
   The name "SamaSama" is Mamasan's idea, it is Indonesian for Welcome, and that is putting the greeting we received very-mildly. Mamasan and Daughter were awesome hosts and their company was the icing-on-the-cake of what was already a great day.
   SamaSama is open from Wednesday-to-Sunday and opens for lunch from 12pm-to-5pm then the evening menu kicks-in until about 1am.
   Although there is car-parking, I suggest, if you plan to drink alcohol, you travel via rail. The attached map guides you from the J.R.Obitoke Station to SamaSama - "Everytrail".
  The attached video, I hope, will give you a better idea of the establishment. Enjoy.

   
   Throughout this blog I mentioned my hiking buddy Hugo. Well Hugo is a very experienced journalist and accomplished photographer (both with video and still camera) and has his own blog covering many aspects of Japan. Kyoto and Nara Dream Trips is his creation. Check it out.


   So, until next time, Sayonara.