Tiki Touring from Nara to Kizu.

Tiki Tour (New-Zealand Slang)
   1. a sightseeing journey with no particular destination in mind.
   2. to take the scenic route to a destination.
   3. to wander aimlessly.

Map Location.

   Nara Park, famous for it's Temples & Shrines, and the tame Deer that roam freely about the precincts of the park, is the starting point of what was to be one of the best bike-rides I have done in many years. I did have a plan, of sorts, and that was to keep-off any main thoroughfare, and travel via the narrow lanes & paths through the rural outback of Nara Prefecture. I didn't have a destination in mind (my final destination of the day would be home of course), that decision would come when I reached a certain junction and, after a bite-to-eat and an energy check, I would proceed.
   Exiting the park, and taking a narrow lane lined with quaint typical Japanese restaurants, I stop to admire (and photograph) some young deer grazing before heading-into a forest and my first hill-climb of the day. Although it wasn't a hot day, being amongst the trees provides a cool shelter from the sun as I wound my way up the hill to the junction with the Nara Okuyama Driveway (Map Location.)

Map Location.

   A few hundred meters before the summit though, I paused for a few minutes at the junction of four tracks, which I was soon to connect with. The track has three different names - the "Tokaido Road", which was created during the Edo Period (1603-to-1867) to enable people to migrate between Osaka and Tokyo. In the late 16th-century, when the settlement of Yagyu became the home of a sword-fighting school, the road also became known as "The Old Yagyu Road". Then, in the late 1960's, construction began to create a long distance hiking trail, and was given the name of "The Tokai Nature Walk".

Map Location.

   After reaching the summit, I now connect with the aforementioned road, albeit for about 2km, and these interesting collection of buildings. This is the Tagenochyuo Tea-House, and has been on this site for over 180-years. The present proprietor is the 6th generation of his family to run this establishment. The place is like a museum with a couple of flintlock rifles hanging on display, along with other weapons and assorted memorabilia dating-back many centuries.     

Map Location.

  
                                           

   I now exit the forest and emerge into the open rural outback of Nara, and enter the settlement of Setarin-cho. This is my kind of cycling environment and I am becoming excited as to what lies ahead. It has been a couple of weeks since the rice was harvested, but the ground is still a sea of green where the grass has taken over.
   Tucked-into an alcove, by the side of the road, 

Hachisaka-jinja.

is this "Hokora", or miniature Shinto Shrine. This, I am hoping, will be the first of many religious icons and sites I will experience on today's trip.

Map Location.

   










   As I leave the settlement of Setarin-cho, my narrow lane becomes a narrower lane and I enter another forested area. I emerge soon after into another settlement and from here my track takes me through some very dense and overgrown bush. I emerge onto a road where my immediate task is to remove the many spiders and their webs that have entangled themselves into my cycle-helmet. 

Map Location.

   Oyagyu-cho (not to be confused with the town of Yagyu mentioned earlier) is situated on the Tokaido/Old-Yagyu Road. I have passed-through here on a few occasions on one of my many hikes through this region. 
   As I pass through the town I arrive at a bridge (Map Location) and, as I cross it, my attention is drawn to a path that runs alongside the stream. Staying with my plan to keep off as many roads as possible, I take the lane and soon find myself entering another wooded area. Stopping to record more scenes for my video of this trip, I spot a small Sekibutsu (Stone Carving of Buddha) carved into a rock in the hill behind me. 

Map Location.

       
   I have a strong fascination with these carvings, especially their isolated locations. As you can see on the attached map link, this one is no different from the many others I have stumbled-across on my travels. Some years ago I wrote an article for a travel website covering a pilgrimage, with many such carvings located throughout an area of Nara Prefecture - "Touno Sekibutsu no Sato". 

Map Location.

   A short while later I emerge into the settlement of Sakahara-cho and, as I wind my way through the narrow lanes, some only wide enough for one vehicle, I come-across the Nagao-jinja Shrine.

Nagao-jinja Shrine.

   I was able to recognize the name of the shrine by the Kanji characters embossed on this lantern. The complex was a hive of activity ( as seen on this video) with, what I presume, to be preparations for an upcoming festival.

   Nestled on the Kagura-den (a special stage) was this Mikoshi palanquin, used in a festival known as Matsuri , which is held throughout Japan to celebrate the shrine's deity.
   Time to move on, and down another narrow lane, past some more quaint houses and over another narrow bridge from Nagao-jinja, I reach another road that disappears into another forest.

Map Location.

   Route-173, as I later discovered it's name, was narrow, windy, pot-holed, wet and down-hill. Keeping any attempt to get carried-away and go-for-it, I changed into cruise mode, relaxed and enjoyed the experience. I emerged at a junction that I immediately recognized - route-33, a road that connects the town of Kasagi with Nara City - and a sheltered lunch-spot. By now I was in dire need of an energy top-up (in this instance bread-rolls, chocolate and banana) before deciding where to from here.

   A few meters away from where I was dining was a rocky outcrop with several Buddhist carvings engraved into the surface. In this instance they all appear to be Jizo, of one form or another. The full video of this trip will allow you a better view.

   Having topped-up my fuel tanks, I decided to continue with my tour. Unlike the first segment, from here I will be in familiar surroundings but still keeping to the back lanes & tracks, and isolated settlements.

Map Location.

   Another forest, another narrow rural lane, another settlement and, before I know it, I have arrived at the settlement of Kamocho Takasari. There is a dirt track that branches-off the lane that will eventually take me around the town of Kamo (the video will give you a better idea of the terrain) and onto my final destination.

Map Location.

   I arrive at a cut through the hill and, as I pass through it, carved into the clay earth, is this Jizo (again the video will give you a better view).

Map Location.

   After a few hairy moments during my descent, I arrive back on a sealed road and the opportunity to top-up my water bottles. There is nothing nicer than fresh spring water to satisfy your thirst and, if the need be, to take a rinse-off to cool your body on a hot day.
   From here I bypass Kamo Town and follow the Kizugawa River to Kizu, where I connect-up with the Kizugawa cycle/walk-way. A kilometer along and I arrive at a shelter/rest-stop (Map Location), popular with users of the path, and decide to bring this trip to a conclusion. While having the last of my bananas, I reflect on the past 7-hours and the 44km I covered over that time, and come to the conclusion that this has been one of my best rides since arriving in Japan. I will place this in my "must do again" folder.

   Thank-you for taking the time to view this post. I hope you have enjoyed it, as much as I have enjoyed sharing it with you. And, until next time, happy travels and Sayonnara.

   Full Video of this trip.

   The Course (distance,elevation,time &images) as recorded on my "Cateye     INOU" device.

    

         

Hiking the Border in the Soraku District.

   It seems, when I look back over the past year, I have been spending a lot of time in this area, either on foot or on my bike. The Soraku District has a lot to offer for the outdoors person, like myself and, each time I venture into the area, I discover a new track that lures me back to check-out. About 4-months ago I hiked a course, commencing at Tsukigaseguchi, and finishing at Shigarakicho Tarao (my ENOU recording of the trip), which required me to follow the borders that separate the prefectures of Kyoto, Mie & Shiga. When I reached the junction, where I was to leave the border track and descent into Tarao (map location), I became curious as to whether the track I was on continued and, if so, where did it end?

Map Location.

   So, an idea was born, and a plan created - I would return to Tsukigaseguchi, re-acquaint myself with the border track and hike through to route-138 (the Tarao-to-Iga road) and, if possible, descend a track into the settlement of Shimagahara (my planned route). I was wary that this area of Japan was experiencing a heatwave and, with the first part of my hike up a steep ascent through dense forest, I needed to pace myself.

   The track is well marked with concrete posts (as seen in the image on the left) and red tape tied to trees.

Map Location.

   About 2-kilometers in I reached the settlement of Okuda. The rural scenery in Japan at this time of year is very green, with the rice fields midway through their growth, before harvest in around September/October. The next time I see this scenery, I hope, will be when I descend into Shimagahara. After some bush-bashing, and an ascent up a dirt incline, I reach my track (in the above-left image). On my last trip through here I happened-across some wild deer but was unable to get my video-camera out in time to record them. On this occasion I was better prepared but, as luck would have it, no deer.

Map Location.

As I ascend I am treated to some splendid vistas overlooking the Tsukigaseguchi area, and the opportunity to take-in some water. Then, nearing the top of this section, I pass Yurugi-iwa (rock). The rock resemble the legendary creature Tengu and, the previous two times I have passed-by this rock, there have been flowers in the vases.

   Five minutes on from the rock I arrive at the junction with the Mikune-goe Rindo then, my next segment and my first rest-stop.

Map Location.

   This sheltered rest stop is an ideal location to take a break, have a bite to eat, and admire the 90-degree view below. And what a view it is. With views like this, one finds it difficult to move-on.

Map Location.

    A couple-of-hundred meters on and this knob. In the video I refer to this as an "un-named mountain" ( it's about 637m above sea-level) but in fact it's the junction of Kyoto, Mie & Shiga Prefectures. My track veers off to the right. Unlike the first few hundred meters to this point, the next segment is a bit overgrown with pig fern and I have to watch where I place my feet.

Map Location.

   Now something I debated with myself, as to whether I should include in this post. But, what the hell. Japan pays a lot of importance on it's infrastructure, in particular in the area of access-roads, motorways, mountain-lanes (as in the image on the left). Suddenly, as I was making my way through the forest, I emerge onto this mountain lane. This is not uncommon but, in this instance, it goes nowhere. Maybe it's on the 10-year plan. 
   Not much further on and the junction that descends into the settlement of Shigarakicho Tarao. From here I am in uncharted territory, but, like the track to this location, it is well posted and tagged. The track also is well defined ( I began to suspect that the lane I mentioned, may eventually pass along this route). In some parts the track and markers crisscross. 

Map Location.

   I suddenly come-across a junction, with some felled trees lying around, which was my cue to break for lunch - hot curry & chocolate bread sticks, all washed down with a mug of cafe au lait. Little did I realize at the time, I was now off course (as seen in the "Map Location" attached to the above image). The track I was on was still well defined and marked, but not for long. Soon the track began to descend very steeply through dense bush, to emerge onto the "Mikuni Forest Road", on the outskirts of the settlement of Shimagahara. As I wasn't in the mood for another ascent (to rejoin my planned route) I opted to leisurely make my way to the station, taking-in some of the local scenery, and home.

   As the trains through Shimagahara Station are few-and-far-between, I spent my 50-minutes waiting time consuming another cafe au lait & a pack of current buns, while I also assessed my day. 
   Later that night, accompanied with a 6-pack of beer, I uploaded my G.P.S./trip details (Hiking the Borders of Soraku) and, along with other maps, I was able to pinpoint where I strayed-off my course - about 50-meters back from my lunch site. For the following few days I obsessed as to whether I wanted to complete this course and, the conclusion I came to.......

......Hiking the Border in the Soraku District - part-2.

Map Location.

   So, one week later (almost to the hour), I was back here and my second attempt at hiking the border to route-138. If last weeks heat was bad enough, today's forecast was for temps' peaking at about 37c (two extra bottles of water were included in my pack, just in case). I followed the same course but, when I reached the junction of the 'Tarao track, I followed the pegs and not the track. That way, I hope, I wouldn't stray-off course. 

Map Location.

I soon reached this peg (in the image on the left) and, in the distance I could see other pegs. Putting two-and-two together, I felt I was still on course (oops, wrong. I should have turned left here). Little did I know, I was about to pass my lunch site from the week before, albeit on another track.

Map Location.

The track was still well defined & marked then, when I arrived at this point (the image on the right), the pegs suddenly stopped. At this point certain expletives could be heard emanating from my mouth. A quick check of the G.P.S. function on my cellphone (something I didn't realize I had) and yes, like last week, I was (again) off course. I followed what looked like an old track, which connected to other old tracks, which eventually emerged at, guess where, yes, the Mikuni Forest Road, but a bit further down from last week.

    In a way I was relieved, as it gave me the excuse to stop for lunch, and wring the sweat out of my clothing. I was soaking wet and ..... hungry. I returned to the station via the same route as last week and, on this occasion, I only had a 40-minute wait for my train. Still time for a cafe au lait and current buns. 
   Upon return home I again uploaded my G.P.S./trip details (Hiking the Borders of Soraku - part-2.) and, along with other maps, discovered where I strayed-off my course.

......Hiking the Borders in the Soraku District - part-3. 

   Will there be a part-3? Yes, I think so. But, this time I will plan my attempt from the other end - route-138 (map location) - when this heatwave is over. 

                So, until next time, Sayonara from the Soraku District.

   Full video of both outings.

Route-307. Koka to Kyotanabe.

   Route-307 is classified as a National Highway, but I refer to them as Inter-Prefecture Roads.  Commencing it's journey in Hirakata City, '307 passes through three prefectures, before ending at the city of Hikone, a journey of just over 100-kilometers. My plan however is to cover a small section, beginning at the junction with route-5, at Koka City, and ending at the Yamashiro-ohashi Bridge, in Kyotanabe City, and I will do this by cycling roads and lanes that run parallel to, or, in the vicinity of '307 (in some sections I will have no alternative than to use '307), and, along the way, check-out what lies alongside or nearby. 

Raccoondog Figurines.

   A kilometer into my exploration and my first point-of-interest. The area surrounding Shigaraki is famous for it's pottery & ceramics, and this shop (map location), selling Racoondog figurines, is just one of dozens selling a range of products. This video best shows the selection available, and not just Raccoondogs.
   Just down the road from the gallery, and my first detour off '307, and into the settlement of Kamiasamiya. I spot a lane branching-off the street that begs further investigation, and I am so pleased I did. This video, taken using my INOU device (sorry no sound), best describes the feeling I get, when passing through settlements such as this. Though one does have to be careful, as one doesn't know what/who lies just around the corner.

Map Location. 

   And, it was one such corner that I happened-across this establishment - a Ramen restaurant. This is a popular chain throughout Japan, and can be found in many cities across the land. But here? In this isolated settlement? I couldn't believe it. This begs further investigation, at another time when I'm not wearing my sweaty cycling gear.

Torii, entrance to
Sansho-jinja.

Entrance Gate and Purification Trough.

Stage.

   Next door to the restaurant, and set in amongst tall cedar, is the Sansho-jinja Shrine (sorry no information available). Always on the lookout for these complexes, I found this particular jinja different, in as much as the buildings located throughout the site. As this video will show.
  Leaving the shrine I continue my way through Kamiasamiya, where I re-connect with '307, albeit for about 100-meters, before exiting into the settlement of Shimoasamiya. Nothing here that attracts my attention and, before long, I'm back-onto '307 and my next junction.

Map Location.

   It's at this junction (map location) where route-307 originally came through, before they bored the tunnel and made a bypass. I remember, in 2003, driving to Shigaraki along the old road and feeling quite squirmish  with all the tight bends. This video, I hope, will give you an idea of the conditions (sorry no sound). From here '307 runs in the vicinity and, until I re-join it, at the settlement of Hatatani, I get to see/experience some awesome scenery. Then, after two more junctions, one being route-283, the road to Wazuka Town, I come 

Map Location.

across this place of worship. Judging by the small Kitsune either side of the monument, this is an Inari Okami.

   By now my stomach is sending me massages that it's time to refuel if I am to continue (up to this point I had covered about 55km, and been on the road for just over 4-hours) then, suddenly, out-of-the-blue, my ideal location for a lunch-break.

Torii, entrance to
Yuki/Sachi-jinja Shrine.

Map Location.

   Yuki/Sachi-jinja ( please excuse the dual name. Because of the difficulty in interpreting Kanji, it can be difficult to name a place) was an ideal location to re-charge my batteries, check my map and some of the images taken so far.

   Looking at the materials used in the construction of this complex, I would hazard-a-guess this is  fairly new, or has recently been restored. This video will give you an idea of my surroundings while I took my break. 
   The settlement of Hatatani wouldn't have know what struck it when, about 10-years ago, route-307 was re-routed past the town, instead of passing through it. Some of the houses border right on the edge of the road, and the road itself is very narrow.

Map Location.

   As I exit the settlement of Hatatani, a lane takes me away from '307 and into the hills, and some great rural scenery, as seen in this video (sorry no sound). Oh it is so great to be in my kinda' environment. For the next couple of kilometers I enter the forest and muddy/rutted tracks.

Map Location.

   I reach a junction where I am forced to alight my bike and lug myself up a muddy track. With all the rain of the past week, I was cautious of fallen debris and slipping. Then, when I reach the plateau, this Jizo. As you can see in the image, I was thankful for the respite. I also detected the sound of drizzle above, which lasted all of a few minutes, and the canopy allowed me shelter.
   A short distance on and I exit the forest and emerge at a clearing, and another junction. Here, five tracks  converge coming from the major points of the compass (map location), which also indicated that I was on the outskirts of the settlement of Yuyadani. 

Map Location.

   I enter another forest and, as I exit and descend the lane, my attention is drawn to this interesting house. This was the homestead of Nagatani Soen, a man famous in this area for developing a technique for processing tea. Today his house is a museum dedicated to his work. Surrounding the house is a beautiful garden with picnic area. The day I visited, the hydrangeas were in full bloom, which added a touch of color to the surroundings.

Torii, entrance to
Chasomyo-jinja Shrine,

 Across the road from the homestead, is the Chasomyo-jinja, which is also dedicated to Nagatani Soen. Some months ago, while hiking through the area (Pilgrimage of Prayer), I recorded this video.

Map Location.

  

   Time to move on and, as I pass through Yuyadani, my first view of '307 for over an hour (but I don't re-join it). I then take another lane that takes me through tea plantations and a forest-pass (above image) before emerging into the suburbs (for want of a better description) of Ujitawara.

   I am now to be reacquainted with '307, but just for a few hundred meters, before I veer-off again into the back-blocks and narrow lanes of Ujitawara. My next junction is with route-62, the Ujitawara-to-Wazuka road. This part of '62 was once where the Tokaido Road passed through on it's way to Kontai-ji Temple, Wazuka, Mikuni-goe Rindo and beyond. Then, before I know it, there is '307 again. The next 2km is the most dangerous section of the entire length of this road. It's very narrow and allows no room for error. Come-off your bike, and pray that there isn't a vehicle on your tail. Emerging from this stretch, and into the town of Ide, I discover a lane branching-off to my left. Eager for an alternative I take it and discover it follows a stream and, after crossing several junctions, I emerge at the Yamashiro-ohashi Bridge (map location). But I'm not home yet. The junction of routes '307 and '24 is one hell of a busy intersection and, to get onto the bridge cycle-path, I take advantage of the pedestrian crossing, before my final segment. 

Map Location

    31-kilometers x 3.5-hours after leaving Koka City, and passing-through several settlements and experiencing some great scenery along the way, I have arrived at my goal - the Kizugawa River cycle-way, Kyotanabe City.
   Now, where shall I go for my next excursion? 

   Full video of trip.

   Trip, through Riding with G.P.S. page.

   Trip recorded using my INOU device.     

Route-5 - Kamo Town to Koka City.

Yours Truly.

   Route-5 is another of those roads I have either commuted along, or crossed over, while on one of my outings. Like the Mikuni-goe Rindo (Mikuni Forest Road), I have treated route-5 in much the same way, by not paying much attention to what lies along-side or in the vicinity. So I decided it was time to change that.
   Commencing at the junction with route-163, in the town of Kamo (map location), route-5 passes through the town of Wazuka (famous for it's Tea), as-well-as the settlements of Harayama, Yubune, Nakayama and Shigaraki, before completing it's journey at the junction of route-307 at Koka City (map location). For the main part the road is joined by the Wazuka River, albeit in a less direct course, and, as we progress,  gradually decreases from a river to a stream before disappearing into the hills to it's source.

Sekibutsu Miroku.

     After spending the past hour cycling along '307, with it's heavy traffic, noise and dust, it was great to finally get onto a country road and into cruise mode. Four kilometers in and my first point-of-interest, the Sekibutsu Miroku (map location). The carving depicts the image of Maitreya Buddha and, according to the plaque, was created in April of 1300. As it was on the opposite side of the river, I wasn't prepared to go the extra few kilometers to get there, so I shall share this video, taken during a hike into the area.

Sekibutsu Pagoda.

   A few hundred meters on, and my next POI. The Sekubutsu Pagoda (map location) is a monument in remembrance to the "Great Yamashiro Flood" of 1953. During the course of the clean-up, the many stone carvings that make up this creation, were gathered and used to make this monument.

Wazuka Town.

   Next stop, Wazuka Town. It's here one gets the first glimpse of what this area is famous for - Tea. Tea, as far as the eye can see, and in some very isolated of places. Standing on the bridge (map location), at the junction of routes-5 & 62, and looking about the hills that surround this town, one can see hillside plantations with some great cycling & hiking tracks, tracks used by farmers as access to their crops. In front of you is Mount Taiko, which is in fact the Kofun, or Burial Mound of Prince Asaka (video), the 5th son of Emperor Shomu.

Route-5/Tokaido Road Junction.

    Before long I am leaving Wazuka Town behind and arrive at the Harayama Junction (map location). It is at this location the Tokaido Road, after it's descent from Jubu-san (Mt Jubu) & Kontai-ji Temple, makes it's way through the village & rice-fields before it's ascent on the opposite side of the valley, to connect with the Mikuni-goe Rindo. It's hard to imagine what this intersection, if there was an intersection, looked like some 400-years ago, when people were migrating through here. I doubt if the bus-stop was here then.

   From this point the valley closes-in and the road and river follow each other more closely then opens again, a few kilometers on, and a couple of tunnels, at the settlement of Yubune (map location). As I pass through the settlement the road becomes very narrow with the houses bordering right on the edge of the thoroughfare (as seen in the image on the left). With the occasional truck passing through, life must be hell inside these dwellings. One wrong move and someone may have a Mack Truck parked in their front room.

Torii
entrance to
Hongan-jinja Shrine.

   As I begin to exit Yubune I find a sheltered area to stop for a break and check-out a small roadside stall selling fruit and veges. I get my video camera out to record the scenery and, as I am recording, I discover a concrete Torii set amongst the tea plantation. Of the four times I have passed through this area, I never noticed this. So, with cameras in hand, I ascend the steps to discover what lies amongst the trees. Hongan-jinja (video) is made up of three small Hokora, or miniature Shinto Shrines, quite common in small areas such as Yubune. 
   Just around the corner is the settlement of Nakayama and, like it's neighbour, the houses are very close to the road edge. Earlier this year, while waiting for a bus to take me to Kamo (this is the terminus), I had an hour to spare. So I decided to check-out and wander through the settlement. While doing so, I discovered this awesome temple overlooking the houses below. Taiti-Tera Temple is well worth the time to visit.
   

Map Location.

   
   As I exit the valley confines of Yubune and Nakayama, the area opens up and more tea plantations. On this occasion right down to the very edge of the road, as seen in the image on the left. Also take note of how narrow the road is. A couple of kilometers back, two trucks had a hell of a job passing each other and one, towing a vehicle trailer, had to back-up to allow the other to pass.

Map Location.

   I have reached a junction, and the time to farewell the Wazuka River. At this point the river heads into a surrounding valley and it's source. I have hiked and cycled the trail that accompanies the river (now a stream) on two occasions, and there is some terrific scenery to be experienced.
  

Map Location.

   A few hundred meters on and my next point-of-interest - this extensive picnic/recreation area. The site covered the best part of a kilometer, with play areas, sheltered dining sheds, walking trails and, through the middle of it, a stream. I have placed this in my "must return" list, with my family.
   A short distance along and I reach the border separating Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures (map location). After the gradual incline of the past 19-kilometers, I feel a distinctive change and freewheel into the city of Koka ( the stream accompanying the road is now flowing in the same direction). The area is made famous because of it's pottery making and, if pottery and ceramics is for you, this is heaven.

Map Location.

   I soon discover a pottery maker that is open and, with the permission of the potter, I take a look through his gallery. If I was in a car, and had plenty of money, I would have gone on a shopping-spree. This site has also been placed on my "must return" list. 

Map Location.

   As I come around a sweeping bend, I notice a large volume of traffic in the distance, and this sign informing me that the junction of route-307 and route-5 are just up ahead. My journey-of-discovery is about to come to an end. It's been an awesome outing but, there again, all my outings are awesome. That's the way it is with me. And that's why I am an "Outdoorholic" . I hope you have enjoyed this journey, as much as I have enjoyed bringing it to you.
   If you do plan to experience Route-5, regardless of your mode, don't be in a hurry. Especially when you arrive at the many settlements. Find a place to park, then take a leisurely stroll. You won't be disappointed with what you find. 

                So, in signing-off, I shall bid you farewell until the next time. 

   Full video of Route-5.

   Map of the course - http://ridewithgps.com/trips/1457804