Nishigamo, Kyoto City - revisited.

   The purpose of this revisit to Nishigamo was to check-out the track I missed on my previous excursion - 'Nishigamo, Kyoto City - the return'. If successful, then all going well I would decide where to go from there - I had a few ideas in my head, but all depended on where/if this track emerged.
   This is a good time of year to be in Japan - actually, any time of year is a good time to be in Japan - as many of the Sakura would still be in bloom. And I wasn't to be disappointed, as I was to witness as I made my way along the Kamogawa River through Kyoto City. As this is a busy thoroughfare, both with cyclists & walkers, care is needed if one wants to admire the surroundings, and the best course-of-action, is to stop. 

Map location.

     From Demachiyanagi, where the Takanogawa & Kamogawa Rivers converge, there are thirteen bridges that cross the river. I needed to exit the path at bridge seven; take the wrong exit, and god-knows where I would end up. Thankfully my counting skills were still in working order. From here I made a bee-line for Akiba-jinja. This is where I emerged on my previous trip into the area.

     A few hundred meters before Akiba-jinja, partly camouflaged by trees, was Shoryu Benzaiten-sha Shrine. As I was in touring mode, and in no particular hurry, I stopped to check-out the site.

     By the time I reached Akiba-jinja the day was beginning to heat-up. To this point I had already cycled 36km, and it had been three hours since breakfast. So a banana was the order of the moment, along with posing for the obligatory photo, before proceeding.
     The track from this point changed dramatically, to become rocky and, at times dangerous. I needed to weave my way between large rocks, making sure I didn't slip & fall, or end-up in the stream below, all the while taking-in the awesome scenery one would come to expect in this type of terrain. The fact that the track wasn't a steep ascent went in my favour. I did notice, as I made my way, a couple of other tracks branching-off the one I was on. As there were no signposts indicating where they led to, I stayed on my course.
     The euphoria I was feeling at this point was about to be sorely tested - 

   - when I arrived at this junction.There was another track branching-off at this point but, as it didn't look anything, I proceeded ahead (also the sign that was nailed to the tree said 'Kyomi-toge' straight ahead).

   To describe the next section of track, the words 'very steep' would be an understatement, to say the least. For the next 1km I would climb nearly one-hundred meters, up a narrow path pushing my bike in front of me (as in the image on the right) using my brakes as anchors. As I had no idea where I was, in relation to where I hoped to emerge, I can't express enough how I felt when I heard the sound of a motorbike passing nearby.

     I was so relieved when I emerged onto route-31, just opposite the junction with the Kodo Nagasaka-michi Road (map location). In a way I was pleased I missed this track on my previous visit, because descending this section would have been tempting fate. Experiencing the same exhilaration as I did on my first two ventures into the area, I made the decision to proceed through the Kyomi-toge to the Himura-michi road, and check-out another track.

     My next stop, and respite from my recent struggle, was at Himura-jinja (map location). Himura, translated into English, means 'Ice House'. It is believed a shrine was established here in the 17th Century, when Kyoto was the Imperial Capitol. Ice was collected from nearby ponds, and stored here exclusively for the Imperial Palace. 

     A few hundred meters down the road from the shrine, and through some rice fields, is this monument. I had noticed this site on Google Maps when I was doing my research for this trip, and I was keen to check it out. Located here are the remains of the Hiuro's Ice Pits. A track, leading up behind the monument, took me to three small dents in the ground. 

  
     A mountain stream fed water into the dents and, when became frozen, were then carried to the nearby shrine, and eventually to the Imperial Capitol. In 1994 this site, and Himuro-jinja, were designated an 'Important Cultural Heritage Site of Kyoto'.

     From this point my track led past more rice fields and on into a forest. If my research was accurate, I should emerge back onto route-31. The track was well formed and soft. Shortly after entering the forest I happened-across this cemetery. What a serene location to spend eternity. Shortly after leaving the cemetery I arrived at a junction. My track now became a sealed lane and my first impression was that I had arrived at my intended destination. A quick check of my smartphone map told me I was still some distance from route-31. So I proceeded on, passing several derelict outbuildings and, as I turned a bend, there in front of me was my intended junction.

    From here I headed back in the direction of the Kyomi-toge Pass but, before that, was another stop.
   There is nothing more refreshing than to drink pure & clear spring mountain water and, at Funamizu-no Sugisaka (water of Kyomi-toge), one can do just that. I come-across these springs a lot during my travels and always take the opportunity to fill my bottles before moving-on. Some of these sites are very popular and, at times, one has to stand in line. I leave the spring well sated and proceed towards Kyoto, not knowing what course I will take. I arrive back at the junction of the Kodo Nagasaka-michi Road and made the decision to take this route and return home via Arashiyama. Having cycled this road once before, I was aware of it's steepness and extreme caution was the order-of-the-day; the 1km distance, from top-to-the-bottom, the road drops 200m.

   At the bottom I take another narrow mountain lane that will take me up-and-over the hill, thereby avoiding the crowds of tourists converging on Kinkaku-ji Temple - this is one of the top tourist sites in Kyoto and, trying to weave ones way through the throngs of people and vehicles, can be very frustrating.
   The solitude and serenity of the past few hours is about to be broken, in a big way. At the plateau of this hill lies the 'Haradanien Gardens' (map location) and, with the Sakura in full bloom, thousands of people have converged here to take part in the annual Hanami ritual. Here's me thinking I was being clever. 

Map location.

    I soon emerged onto route-29 and make my way to Arshiyama, passing the Hirosawa Pond. Many of the Sakura overlooking the pond are still in bloom, and I stop to appreciate the very beautiful scenery.

     If I thought the area around the Haradanien Gardens was congested, then the main street through Arashiyama was chaotic. The footpaths on both sides of the street were totally redundant and traffic was restricted to a crawl. The 'Togetsu-kyo bridge' was no better. I did manage to find a bench overlooking the Katsuragawa River, where I could sit and take on some sustenance, before commencing on the last 32km trip home. It was good to be back on my own again and, with a good tail-wind to help me, I cruised home.
   Ninety-one kilometers and six hours later, I arrived home. I was buzzing with joy at such a great day I had had.

     This brings to an end my exploration of Nishigamo, but I do plan to return to the area surrounding the settlement of Himuro. My 'Strava' connection has posted another route in the area I am keen to check-out. But that's another story.

     As always, thank-you for reading my blog and, until next time - 

Sayonara.

   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2283430469      

Nishigamo, Kyoto City - the return.

Map location.

     In my previous post in this series - 'Nishigamo, Kyoto City' - I mentioned a second track I planned to explore but, because of the exhilaration I felt at the end of the first track,and the detour I took, I never got to carry-out my plan. So, this is that said track. On this occasion, all going well, I would emerge again at the Himuro-michi Road, then head for the Kyomi-toge pass and then take another track and emerge at the Funayama Golf Course. The inspiration for this track, again, came from one of my 'Strava' connections.
   The start of this track was just a few-hundred meters along the road from the previous one. Upon commencing my course, I had an uneasy feeling I was on the wrong path. Across the stream from where I stopped, I could see another track. So I u-turned and went in search of the intended path. No problem, it was just a few meters away. This path was very narrow, unlike the first, which looked like a vehicular track, so I needed to take extreme care as there was a steep drop into a stream a couple-of-meters below. As can be seen in the image on the left.

   Now, I don't know about you, but I am a firm believer in 'Murphy's Law'. A hundred meters in, or thereabouts, I came to this stream crossing that emerged onto, yes, the original track. Now, if I stayed on that earlier track, I would have got lost. The track from this point became a matter of life-and-death and, when I look back at the terrain, I was quite foolish to have attempted this on my own. On two occasions I had to lug my bike down a steep bank, cross a stream, then lug it back up the other side. With my foothold very insecure.

                                                                                                                              The above two images give you an idea of the terrain I had to endure. I appreciate the fact I have to, at times, push myself to achieve my goal, but I feel this was the limit I would go. If I was to have an accident and become incapacitated, trying to explain to the emergency services where exactly I was, would be near to impossible.

    As I turned to resume my journey, I was greeted by this sight. Views like this confirm my love & appreciation for the outdoors, and I stood here for a minute-or-two to take-in my surroundings. Just along from where this photo was taken was a collection of buildings inside a fenced-off area that resembled a lumber yard. The previous time I was in this area I remember seeing these buildings, but from a height, and I knew I was nearing the junction. And, a few-hundred meters further on, I was back in familiar territory. As I knew the terrain I was to expect, I slowed-down my pace a notch and quietly proceeded.

     I soon arrived at another junction, when I discovered this tree, with a sign nailed to it giving directions. Referring to my map I wasn't able to determine exactly where the other track led to. Not to worry, this was one course I wasn't going to deviate from. And so I moved-on.
   The Himura-michi Road wasn't far away, and I am soon back onto a sealed surface, albeit not for long. This section of the road, through to route-31, is in two parts. First there is a steep ascent, followed by a steep descent. At the junction I meet-up with a road cyclists; this area is very popular with cyclists, due to it's proximity to the city and the terrain is ideal for training.

Map location.

     Before I knew it I have arrived at the plateau of the Kyomi-toge Pass. It is at this location I take another track and descend to the Funayama Golf Course. Searching around I discover this track but,before heading-off, I look around some more, in case this is a different track from the one I am suppose to take. I find nothing, so I decide to move on. The first hundred meters were quite steep and I soon begun to worry; was I going to have to abort? Thankfully my track leveled-out and became quite ride-able. I was still in dense forest, which was a pity, as the views would have been magnificent. By now it was getting hot.

Map location.

    I soon arrive at a junction where three tracks converge. As there was no signpost giving directions, I take the logical step and proceed ahead. Not far away from this junction is this collection of Jizo. There are six located here which, some may refer to as 'Rokujizo' (Roku = six). It always amazes me when I discover these is such an isolated place. But it's not uncommon.

   Just down from the statues, another junction. Four tracks converge here and, on this occasion, there is a signpost. Consulting my map, I discover I am quite some distance away from my intended track. So, what do I do? I discard the two tracks behind me. The one in front takes me to (Mt)Funayama, which is where I don't want to go. So I turn to my right and head-off, I hope, to connect with my planned track. What I was about to encounter was hell. There had been very little clearing done since the storm of August and, the best way to describe it, was that it resembled an obstacle course designed to train Marines.

Map location.

   But I persevered, more out of pigheadedness; the idea of ascending back through that obstacle course would be too much to cope with. Just as I was questioning myself, regarding my sanity, or insanity, I arrived here - Akiba-jinja Shrine. I now knew exactly where I was, and I yelled a whoop-of-relief. The site has seen better days, but I didn't care.

    
 

      I leaned my bike up against the Torii and headed-up the concrete steps for a look around. The complex was well-and-truly overgrown with vines and fallen branches, but, looking closely, judging by the vase of flowers, someone had recently been here. What impressed me the most was the serenity, considering we were only a stones-throw from the hustle-and-bustle of Kyoto City.
   Remounting my bike I proceeded. From here my path took me through the golf course - ducking my head - where I emerged into familiar surroundings; only recently I had been in this area cycling a section of the 'Tokaido Road'. From here I make a beeline to the Kamogawa River, and on home.
    With all the research I did, I can't believe that I missed my turn-off , and it has annoyed me. So needless-to-say I am planning a return, this time heading to Akiba-jinja, and taking the track from there. While in the area, if I have time, I will check-out a couple of Shrines & Temples. But that's another post.

Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2226125900

So, until next time - 

Sayonara.

                                     

Nishigamo, Kyoto City.

   In the western suburbs of Kyoto City, is an area known as Nishigmo. There isn't much in this area that attracts the tourists, unlike other parts of the city, but, once a year, on the evening of August 16th, all eyes are turned to (Mt)Funayama, and what is known as 'Gozan no Okuribi'. This is a festival where five giant bonfires are lit on mountains surrounding the city. As one who has experienced this event, it is a sight-to-behold.

   This area was brought to my attention by a fellow outdoorholic, who I am connected to through our 'Strava' pages. Looking at a particular trip he had done, I became interested in what lay within the hills of Nishigamo. And so I decided to do some exploring of my own.

 'Exploring the Hills of Nishigamo'

   This was to be my first venture into the area. I had the choice of two tracks, both converging within a kilometer of the road, so I decided to take one through to the Himuro-michi Road, then u-turn and return via the second. I needed to be prepared to abort my trip at any stage, as I was conscience that there still may be remnants of 'Typhoon Jebi' obstructing my way. I had no problem in finding the track, and, upon arrival, I set-off. The first few-hundred meters the surface was concreted, which was nice, but then it turned into a muddy track, which one would expect of this type of terrain. With Kyoto City, and it's environs at my back, I was quite overwhelmed with how quickly my surroundings had changed. And peaceful too.

   About one-kilometer in, and I arrived at this junction. This was my second track and, all going well, I would return here in the not too distant future. But,before I moved-on, I did a quick check that this was where I thought I was. The reason for that, is that the track from this point changed dramatically.

   Gone was the soft undergrowth of fallen leaves & pine-needles, and wide open track. From this point on it would be rocky, rutted-out, tree-weaving and, for most parts, I had to walk and, at times, carry my bike. But I didn't mind. The surrounding scenery was worth the inconvenience. 

     I was surprised how little evidence there was of the storm of last August. I would have expected more obstructions. Not that I was complaining. In some sections I was able to mount my bike and cruise-along at a leisurely pace plus, as I was doing good time, stop and take a couple of photos. I noticed, as I made my way, several tracks branching-off the one I was taking. Taking note of these, I would research their destination upon returning home, in case there was the possibility of me returning here.

Map location.

                                                                                                                                                                          Then suddenly I emerged out into open space, and familiar territory. I had arrived at the junction with the Himuro-michi Road. Familiar, because I have traversed this road several times of the years as I hiked the 'Kyoto Trail'; an 80km trail that partly circumnavigates Kyoto City. I am feeling very exhilarated and, during a short break, I decide to change my plans and head for the settlement of Himuro, and link with the Kyoto Trail.

   My memories of this track are of a steep, narrow & windy descent and I prepare myself to the inevitability of having to carry my bike for the most part. But, what I did forget to take-into account, was the possibility of storm damage still in evidence. In some places the track took a detour, where I had to lug my bike up a hill, scramble under-&-over  fallen trees, before returning to the course proper.

Map location.

   There were some moments when my surroundings were very beautiful, like this bridge. It was while preparing to take this photo a group of elderly-women hikers appeared, and their surprise to seeing a lone cyclists in such an isolated location, brought-on rounds of giggles and chattering.

   For this 3km section of track, I think I only managed to cycle a combined distance of 100-meters, if that. So, when I emerged at route-61 (map location), I was somewhat relieved that I was able to re-mount my bike and move on at a better pace. Like my arrival at the junction with the Himuro-michi Road, I was still feeling great. So I made another change. I would take routes -38 & 40 through the settlement of Shizuhara to Ohara and from there back into Kyoto City and home.
   Six-and-a-half hours, and 92km later, I arrived home, somewhat saddened that the day had come to an end. It had been a awesome bike-ride and, as a 65-year old, I was very proud of myself. But I wasn't finished with the hills of Nishigama. That second track, the one I didn't explore, played on my mind over the following days, so I made the decision to return, and, while doing so, check-out another track in the area. Again, courtesy of my 'Strava' connection. But that's another post.

Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2212101579

So, until next time - 

Sayonara.  

   

Checking-out the hills overlooking Yamashina.

                                                                                                                                                                          I have spent many hours cycling through this area over the years, but it was another post on my 'Strava' page that alerted me to the possibility of some off-road cycling/hiking tracks. Checking this map, and other maps of the area, I came to the conclusion that there was quite a network of tracks, entering & exiting at different locations within this part of Kyoto City.

   Access to the area known as Yamanaka, is via the Yamanaka-goe Road, or route-30. This road, that connects the cities of Kyoto and Otsu, is narrow and quite windy, and care is needed when traversing. At the plateau is the entrance of the 'Hieizan Driveway'. 
   There are also several distractions, especially on the Kyoto side, like the . . . .

Nitten-ji Temple & Shrine (map location). As car-parking is non-existent, being on a bike/foot is an advantage.

   Other distractions include religious icons.



   My plan was to do a reconnaissance ride into the area, and connect with the track my Strava connection had taken but, unlike his trip, I would descend. My research revealed that some of the tracks lead to (Mt)Daimonjiyama, a mountain overlooking Kyoto City and made famous for the 'Gozan-no Okuribi' Festival.

   Arriving at the plateau of the Yamanaka-goe, I then branched off and made my way through the settlement to where my off-road adventure would, I hope, commence. The settlement is constructed in a Grid Plan  layout (map location) and one wrong turn, and god-knows where you can end-up. Like I did on my first venture into the area. Exiting the settlement, my road entered a forest then, after passing a small temple, it became a rocky forest road. A couple of kilometers in, and I arrived at this small shrine (map location). This isn't the first time I have been here and, on each occasion, and others like this, I am continually intrigued as to such a place to establish a religious site.

   After a banana and a few mouthfuls of water to wash it down with, I turned and began to head in the direction of the track I needed to take. And this is what greeted me, remnants of 'Typhoon Jebi' that wreaked havoc throughout the region in early September 2018: wherever one goes they will see scenes like this. I leaned my bike against a tree-stump and headed up to the track. The devastation surrounding me was horrific. It didn't take much to convince me that proceeding was not only impossible, but dangerous. So I decided a u-turn was my best, and only, option. It was just as I was about to return to my bike, when a lone hiker appeared. He had just come from (Mt)Nyoigadake - where I was planning to head to - and was heading to Daimonjiyama. He told me, once I reached the summit, I wouldn't be able proceed further, due to the storm damage, and my best option was another track, which would emerge at Bishamon-do Temple, at Yamashina (map location).

    Shaking hands and expressing my gratitude, I returned to my bike and made my way down. At first I was a bit nervous - dragging my bike over, under or around fallen trees, isn't my idea of a bike-ride - but, as I proceeded, evidence of a clean-up was all around and, at times, I was able to mount my saddle, and ride. Albeit for a few meters.

    Partway down I came to a clearing with a large rock in the middle. This was my cue to take-a-break, have a bite-to-eat, and take a photo.While here I had to re-plan my course, and my best route home. I decided to get onto the Biwako Canal path and, from there, another path that would take me through to Rokujizo and home. I missed my turn-off and ended up cycling through Kyoto City. No sooner had I arrive home, that I was planning my return. And, eleven days later, I did just that.
   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2151913989 

                                                                                                                                                                          The morning of Wednesday 27th dawned cold, miserable and overcast; the previous day we experienced spring/summer like conditions. I made a beeline for the shrine - no sightseeing this trip - and, 40km x 2-hours later, I arrived with the overhead conditions improving. I decided to lock my bike up behind the shrine and explore the track to (Mt) Nyoigadake on foot, and also look for the track that lead down the valley.

   That way, if my reconnaissance wasn't successful, I wouldn't have had to lug my bike the sixteen-hundred meters there & back for nothing. But I was in luck. Like my previous excursion eleven days prior, the track had been cleared. Arriving at the summit, I then went in search of the junction that would eventually take me out and down the valley. And again I was in luck.
  Excited at the prospect of a successful conclusion to this outing, I returned, retrieved my bike, and made my way back to (Mt)Nyoigadake.
   By now it was about 10:30am and the temperature was beginning to heat-up.

Summit of (Mt)Nyoigadake.
Map Location.

        
   The summit was somewhat of an anticlimax. Where someone would expect a marker denoting the summit, with possibly a view of the surrounding hills as a bonus, an aircraft communication/navigation facility was located there instead.

   Leaving the sealed access road, I now commenced my descent down a well maintained forestry road to emerge at, I hope, at Fujio-jinja Shrine. I visited this facility a couple-of-years ago, when I was in the area checking-out other off-road tracks, and would give me an idea where I was in relation to my journey home. The first three kilometers were made-up of several hairpins and, it was about now I was congratulating myself for taking the descent option. Unlike my friend who took the ascent. But, when I arrived at this site, my smile soon disappeared. It was at this point my well-maintained forestry road suddenly became a rough-and-rocky track. In some places it was too hazardous to cycle and I needed to dismount and walk and, on top of that . . . .

  

   . . . . I had to navigate my way through, or over, or around several fallen trees. At this point, in the above image, I began to get the feeling I was nearly at my goal.

Fujio-jinja Shrine.
(map location).

   And my hunch was right. As I broke through the barrier, there, just a few hundred meters down the track, was Fujio-jinja. It was a sight-to-behold; at one stage of my descent I began to worry if & where I would emerge. Parking my bike, I grabbed my drink-bottle, took a banana out of my bag and went and sat on the Kagura-den. By now the sun was unobstructed and glaring in my face - a far cry from the conditions when I left home. I didn't want to get too comfortable, I still had the best part of 40km to ride.
   While sitting here a plan was beginning to form in my mind of a hike, commencing here, that would zig-zag through the hills, ending at the summit of (Mt)Daimonjiyama. But that is another post. 
   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2178374376

   As always, thank-you for viewing and, until next time - 

Sayonara.