Nishigamo, Kyoto City - revisited.

   The purpose of this revisit to Nishigamo was to check-out the track I missed on my previous excursion - 'Nishigamo, Kyoto City - the return'. If successful, then all going well I would decide where to go from there - I had a few ideas in my head, but all depended on where/if this track emerged.
   This is a good time of year to be in Japan - actually, any time of year is a good time to be in Japan - as many of the Sakura would still be in bloom. And I wasn't to be disappointed, as I was to witness as I made my way along the Kamogawa River through Kyoto City. As this is a busy thoroughfare, both with cyclists & walkers, care is needed if one wants to admire the surroundings, and the best course-of-action, is to stop. 

Map location.

     From Demachiyanagi, where the Takanogawa & Kamogawa Rivers converge, there are thirteen bridges that cross the river. I needed to exit the path at bridge seven; take the wrong exit, and god-knows where I would end up. Thankfully my counting skills were still in working order. From here I made a bee-line for Akiba-jinja. This is where I emerged on my previous trip into the area.

     A few hundred meters before Akiba-jinja, partly camouflaged by trees, was Shoryu Benzaiten-sha Shrine. As I was in touring mode, and in no particular hurry, I stopped to check-out the site.

     By the time I reached Akiba-jinja the day was beginning to heat-up. To this point I had already cycled 36km, and it had been three hours since breakfast. So a banana was the order of the moment, along with posing for the obligatory photo, before proceeding.
     The track from this point changed dramatically, to become rocky and, at times dangerous. I needed to weave my way between large rocks, making sure I didn't slip & fall, or end-up in the stream below, all the while taking-in the awesome scenery one would come to expect in this type of terrain. The fact that the track wasn't a steep ascent went in my favour. I did notice, as I made my way, a couple of other tracks branching-off the one I was on. As there were no signposts indicating where they led to, I stayed on my course.
     The euphoria I was feeling at this point was about to be sorely tested - 

   - when I arrived at this junction.There was another track branching-off at this point but, as it didn't look anything, I proceeded ahead (also the sign that was nailed to the tree said 'Kyomi-toge' straight ahead).

   To describe the next section of track, the words 'very steep' would be an understatement, to say the least. For the next 1km I would climb nearly one-hundred meters, up a narrow path pushing my bike in front of me (as in the image on the right) using my brakes as anchors. As I had no idea where I was, in relation to where I hoped to emerge, I can't express enough how I felt when I heard the sound of a motorbike passing nearby.

     I was so relieved when I emerged onto route-31, just opposite the junction with the Kodo Nagasaka-michi Road (map location). In a way I was pleased I missed this track on my previous visit, because descending this section would have been tempting fate. Experiencing the same exhilaration as I did on my first two ventures into the area, I made the decision to proceed through the Kyomi-toge to the Himura-michi road, and check-out another track.

     My next stop, and respite from my recent struggle, was at Himura-jinja (map location). Himura, translated into English, means 'Ice House'. It is believed a shrine was established here in the 17th Century, when Kyoto was the Imperial Capitol. Ice was collected from nearby ponds, and stored here exclusively for the Imperial Palace. 

     A few hundred meters down the road from the shrine, and through some rice fields, is this monument. I had noticed this site on Google Maps when I was doing my research for this trip, and I was keen to check it out. Located here are the remains of the Hiuro's Ice Pits. A track, leading up behind the monument, took me to three small dents in the ground. 

  
     A mountain stream fed water into the dents and, when became frozen, were then carried to the nearby shrine, and eventually to the Imperial Capitol. In 1994 this site, and Himuro-jinja, were designated an 'Important Cultural Heritage Site of Kyoto'.

     From this point my track led past more rice fields and on into a forest. If my research was accurate, I should emerge back onto route-31. The track was well formed and soft. Shortly after entering the forest I happened-across this cemetery. What a serene location to spend eternity. Shortly after leaving the cemetery I arrived at a junction. My track now became a sealed lane and my first impression was that I had arrived at my intended destination. A quick check of my smartphone map told me I was still some distance from route-31. So I proceeded on, passing several derelict outbuildings and, as I turned a bend, there in front of me was my intended junction.

    From here I headed back in the direction of the Kyomi-toge Pass but, before that, was another stop.
   There is nothing more refreshing than to drink pure & clear spring mountain water and, at Funamizu-no Sugisaka (water of Kyomi-toge), one can do just that. I come-across these springs a lot during my travels and always take the opportunity to fill my bottles before moving-on. Some of these sites are very popular and, at times, one has to stand in line. I leave the spring well sated and proceed towards Kyoto, not knowing what course I will take. I arrive back at the junction of the Kodo Nagasaka-michi Road and made the decision to take this route and return home via Arashiyama. Having cycled this road once before, I was aware of it's steepness and extreme caution was the order-of-the-day; the 1km distance, from top-to-the-bottom, the road drops 200m.

   At the bottom I take another narrow mountain lane that will take me up-and-over the hill, thereby avoiding the crowds of tourists converging on Kinkaku-ji Temple - this is one of the top tourist sites in Kyoto and, trying to weave ones way through the throngs of people and vehicles, can be very frustrating.
   The solitude and serenity of the past few hours is about to be broken, in a big way. At the plateau of this hill lies the 'Haradanien Gardens' (map location) and, with the Sakura in full bloom, thousands of people have converged here to take part in the annual Hanami ritual. Here's me thinking I was being clever. 

Map location.

    I soon emerged onto route-29 and make my way to Arshiyama, passing the Hirosawa Pond. Many of the Sakura overlooking the pond are still in bloom, and I stop to appreciate the very beautiful scenery.

     If I thought the area around the Haradanien Gardens was congested, then the main street through Arashiyama was chaotic. The footpaths on both sides of the street were totally redundant and traffic was restricted to a crawl. The 'Togetsu-kyo bridge' was no better. I did manage to find a bench overlooking the Katsuragawa River, where I could sit and take on some sustenance, before commencing on the last 32km trip home. It was good to be back on my own again and, with a good tail-wind to help me, I cruised home.
   Ninety-one kilometers and six hours later, I arrived home. I was buzzing with joy at such a great day I had had.

     This brings to an end my exploration of Nishigamo, but I do plan to return to the area surrounding the settlement of Himuro. My 'Strava' connection has posted another route in the area I am keen to check-out. But that's another story.

     As always, thank-you for reading my blog and, until next time - 

Sayonara.

   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2283430469      

Checking-out the hills overlooking Yamashina.

                                                                                                                                                                          I have spent many hours cycling through this area over the years, but it was another post on my 'Strava' page that alerted me to the possibility of some off-road cycling/hiking tracks. Checking this map, and other maps of the area, I came to the conclusion that there was quite a network of tracks, entering & exiting at different locations within this part of Kyoto City.

   Access to the area known as Yamanaka, is via the Yamanaka-goe Road, or route-30. This road, that connects the cities of Kyoto and Otsu, is narrow and quite windy, and care is needed when traversing. At the plateau is the entrance of the 'Hieizan Driveway'. 
   There are also several distractions, especially on the Kyoto side, like the . . . .

Nitten-ji Temple & Shrine (map location). As car-parking is non-existent, being on a bike/foot is an advantage.

   Other distractions include religious icons.



   My plan was to do a reconnaissance ride into the area, and connect with the track my Strava connection had taken but, unlike his trip, I would descend. My research revealed that some of the tracks lead to (Mt)Daimonjiyama, a mountain overlooking Kyoto City and made famous for the 'Gozan-no Okuribi' Festival.

   Arriving at the plateau of the Yamanaka-goe, I then branched off and made my way through the settlement to where my off-road adventure would, I hope, commence. The settlement is constructed in a Grid Plan  layout (map location) and one wrong turn, and god-knows where you can end-up. Like I did on my first venture into the area. Exiting the settlement, my road entered a forest then, after passing a small temple, it became a rocky forest road. A couple of kilometers in, and I arrived at this small shrine (map location). This isn't the first time I have been here and, on each occasion, and others like this, I am continually intrigued as to such a place to establish a religious site.

   After a banana and a few mouthfuls of water to wash it down with, I turned and began to head in the direction of the track I needed to take. And this is what greeted me, remnants of 'Typhoon Jebi' that wreaked havoc throughout the region in early September 2018: wherever one goes they will see scenes like this. I leaned my bike against a tree-stump and headed up to the track. The devastation surrounding me was horrific. It didn't take much to convince me that proceeding was not only impossible, but dangerous. So I decided a u-turn was my best, and only, option. It was just as I was about to return to my bike, when a lone hiker appeared. He had just come from (Mt)Nyoigadake - where I was planning to head to - and was heading to Daimonjiyama. He told me, once I reached the summit, I wouldn't be able proceed further, due to the storm damage, and my best option was another track, which would emerge at Bishamon-do Temple, at Yamashina (map location).

    Shaking hands and expressing my gratitude, I returned to my bike and made my way down. At first I was a bit nervous - dragging my bike over, under or around fallen trees, isn't my idea of a bike-ride - but, as I proceeded, evidence of a clean-up was all around and, at times, I was able to mount my saddle, and ride. Albeit for a few meters.

    Partway down I came to a clearing with a large rock in the middle. This was my cue to take-a-break, have a bite-to-eat, and take a photo.While here I had to re-plan my course, and my best route home. I decided to get onto the Biwako Canal path and, from there, another path that would take me through to Rokujizo and home. I missed my turn-off and ended up cycling through Kyoto City. No sooner had I arrive home, that I was planning my return. And, eleven days later, I did just that.
   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2151913989 

                                                                                                                                                                          The morning of Wednesday 27th dawned cold, miserable and overcast; the previous day we experienced spring/summer like conditions. I made a beeline for the shrine - no sightseeing this trip - and, 40km x 2-hours later, I arrived with the overhead conditions improving. I decided to lock my bike up behind the shrine and explore the track to (Mt) Nyoigadake on foot, and also look for the track that lead down the valley.

   That way, if my reconnaissance wasn't successful, I wouldn't have had to lug my bike the sixteen-hundred meters there & back for nothing. But I was in luck. Like my previous excursion eleven days prior, the track had been cleared. Arriving at the summit, I then went in search of the junction that would eventually take me out and down the valley. And again I was in luck.
  Excited at the prospect of a successful conclusion to this outing, I returned, retrieved my bike, and made my way back to (Mt)Nyoigadake.
   By now it was about 10:30am and the temperature was beginning to heat-up.

Summit of (Mt)Nyoigadake.
Map Location.

        
   The summit was somewhat of an anticlimax. Where someone would expect a marker denoting the summit, with possibly a view of the surrounding hills as a bonus, an aircraft communication/navigation facility was located there instead.

   Leaving the sealed access road, I now commenced my descent down a well maintained forestry road to emerge at, I hope, at Fujio-jinja Shrine. I visited this facility a couple-of-years ago, when I was in the area checking-out other off-road tracks, and would give me an idea where I was in relation to my journey home. The first three kilometers were made-up of several hairpins and, it was about now I was congratulating myself for taking the descent option. Unlike my friend who took the ascent. But, when I arrived at this site, my smile soon disappeared. It was at this point my well-maintained forestry road suddenly became a rough-and-rocky track. In some places it was too hazardous to cycle and I needed to dismount and walk and, on top of that . . . .

  

   . . . . I had to navigate my way through, or over, or around several fallen trees. At this point, in the above image, I began to get the feeling I was nearly at my goal.

Fujio-jinja Shrine.
(map location).

   And my hunch was right. As I broke through the barrier, there, just a few hundred meters down the track, was Fujio-jinja. It was a sight-to-behold; at one stage of my descent I began to worry if & where I would emerge. Parking my bike, I grabbed my drink-bottle, took a banana out of my bag and went and sat on the Kagura-den. By now the sun was unobstructed and glaring in my face - a far cry from the conditions when I left home. I didn't want to get too comfortable, I still had the best part of 40km to ride.
   While sitting here a plan was beginning to form in my mind of a hike, commencing here, that would zig-zag through the hills, ending at the summit of (Mt)Daimonjiyama. But that is another post. 
   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2178374376

   As always, thank-you for viewing and, until next time - 

Sayonara.

The Kyoto Trail - Route-61 to Ohara.

Map Location.

   It's about 6-weeks ago that I emerged from the bush onto route-61, after completing the 'Kiyotaki to Route-61' segment of the 'Kyoto Trail'. My original plan had been to return much sooner but, thanks to the elements, in this instance the unseasonal weather, I had to delay this segment. The weather today though was perfect - partly cloudy skies, a light breeze and warm - and, after two hours of travelling to get here, I was keen to get on my way.

   Today's course would take me over Mt Mukou to the Yanaki-toge Pass, where I would descend into the settlement of Ninose. From here I follow route-38 to the town of Kurama before heading-into the hills again, and the Yakko-zaka Pass. My descent would bring me to the settlement of Shizuhara, before re-entering the forest for the last time. At the end I would emerge at Ohara and a bus trip to Demachiyanage Station.

   My departure point was close to the confluence of the Kurama and Kamo Rivers. I was wary of the heavy rain the day before and, crossing the river, evidence of how heavy it had been was obvious. I was also conscience that the terrain might be just as hazardous.

   Soon the sounds of the roaring river were behind me then, after crossing a couple of streams, I was about to encounter my first hill-climb of the day. It was quite steep but very-well maintained, as can be seen in this image. As I was in no hurry, I didn't push myself but, with the thick outdoor jacket I was wearing, I was beginning to sweat and huff-and-puff.

   After 10-minutes I arrived at this bench and the opportunity to shed the jacket and take in the views below, before continuing. As I made my way up towards Mt Mukou I encountered more rest sites, offering more vistas of the north-western suburbs of Kyoto City. Arriving at the summit I immediately realized that I had been here before - a couple of years ago, while hiking from Kumogahata to Ninose, I took a side track to Mt Mukou and, upon arrival, placed it on my 'must return' list, to see where it emerged. So, unbeknown to me, here I was.

  

Map Location.

   Ten minutes later I arrived at the Yonaki-toge Pass, where I would join the Tokaido Road, and we would stay together until we reached Ohara. The descent into the settlement of Ninose would be steep and zigzaggy and care would be needed. 

Map Location.

  


   At the base of the hill is the Moriya-jinja Shrine, and an opportunity to take a break before moving on. Recent storms had left it's mark on the complex and the two trees that were responsible for causing the damage were still evident. I have a huge respect for the elements, but it's at times like this I wish it wouldn't cause so much damage. Leaving the shrine, I crossed the Eizan Rail-Line that would run parallel with me until I reached Kurama, and passed through the settlement of Ninose.

Crossing a bridge, I saw many  Sakura in the final stages of shedding their bloom before the green leaves took over. Being in Japan at this time of year is a delight, especially when celebrating Hanami. 

   Just up the road from Ninose, at the junction of routes 38 & 361, is this giant vermilion-colored Torii signifying the entrance to the area known as Kibune and the Kifune-jinja Shrine. This is a popular area for tourists and there is a track that takes you over a hill, linking Kubune to Kurama. But that is a day-trip on it's own. Unless you have the time & energy, then check the area out.

Map Location.

    Next stop is Kurama but, before passing-through, I call into the Kurama Station area and pay my respects to this giant Tengu. It's quite a greeting to those that have just alighted the train and is a very popular photo opportunity.
   A hundred meters up from the entrance to the Kurama-dera Temple is my next turn-off and a return to the hills and forest I so enjoy hiking in.

   
   Immediately after crossing a bridge is this noticeboard, with course map and a warning of the possibility of one encountering bears. The map is the course the 'Tokaodo Road' takes but, as the 'Kyoto Trail' is encompassed within the 'road, it serves a dual purpose. As the area is a popular hiking destination, there are many tracks within the area, and one has to pay attention to staying on the right path. Like I didn't. A track, running parallel to mine - or so I thought - took me in another direction and, through sheer luck, I managed to rejoin my course.

   

  



   All wasn't lost though. I did manage to encounter a couple of photo opportunities during my short detour, along with providing the impetus to return and check-out other tracks in the area.

Map Location.

   My short & steep climb to the plateau, was followed by an equally short & steep descent where I emerged overlooking the settlement of Shizuhara, and a well deserved lunch-break. Having passed-through the area on bike, I knew where I was in relation to where I was going and I was doing good time. So I was in no hurry to move-on.

   Sitting on the Kagura-den, at the Shizuhara-jinja Shrine, was the perfect location to have my break. The location provided ideal vistas overlooking the settlement and surrounding countryside. While sitting here I was soon joined by a fellow outdoorholic, who had just hiked from the Demachyanagi area of Kyoto, over the mountain in front of us, and decided to take-a-break at the shrine. From here he was heading to Kurama, where he would catch the train and eventually home. For a seventy-year-old, he had accomplished a lot during his hiking career and, after 20-years, had just completed the 'Kansai Hyakumeizan' (100-mountains in the Kansai Region). Quite a feat.

   Regretfully it was time to move on. My new-found friend was a very interesting fellow hiker and I could have talked and compared hikes longer. As I made my way out of Shizuhara I passed this interesting garden display. The things one encounters on their journeys.

   Soon my path left the sealed road and
I was back into familiar territory - dirt track, ambling stream, trees & more trees.

  








    15-minutes after leaving the sealed road of route-40, I was to rejoin it at this secluded shrine, and a Sakura still in full bloom. From this point my track follows the road for a hundred meters, but a track passing-through the concrete Torii, takes one to the summit of Mt Konpira and down into Ohara. I am now convinced that a return trip here is on the cards - watch this space.

   The final off-road segment was a gradual descent through a forest that followed this meandering stream, before emerging on the outskirts of Ohara. In front of me was the mountain range that borders Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures and is famous for such mountains as Mt Hiei, Mt Mizui and Mt Obi, to name a few. Passing through some farming plots - mainly vegetables - I arrived at this collection of signposts. It was at this point the 'Tokaido 

Map Location.

Road' and the 'Kyoto Trail' parted company, both heading in opposite directions. The signage was a bit confusing and required some serious thought and, after one failed attempt, I soon resumed my planned course. 

Map Location.

   By now I began to sense the days hike was nearing it's end. A bridge took me across the Takano River then up a narrow lane and, there in front of me, was post number-24, at the junction with route-367. Five-and-a-quarter hours, and eleven-point-five kilometers after leaving route-61, I had reached my goal. The bus-timetable across the road told me I had 10-minutes before the next bus, enough time to reflect on my day. 

    Looking through the images of my trip, like this one on the right, I realize how privileged I was to have experienced such beautiful scenery and of the lone hiker I met at the Shizuhara Shrine.

   As I compose this post my mind is working on a plan to return to the area and, hopefully, that trip won't be too far away. And that will be another post. So, until then . . . .

                                                                        Sayonara.

   Video - https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=bCoYOLBlpzo

   Course details and images - https://ridewithgps.com/trips/14055518