The Kyoto Trail - Route-61 to Ohara.

Map Location.

   It's about 6-weeks ago that I emerged from the bush onto route-61, after completing the 'Kiyotaki to Route-61' segment of the 'Kyoto Trail'. My original plan had been to return much sooner but, thanks to the elements, in this instance the unseasonal weather, I had to delay this segment. The weather today though was perfect - partly cloudy skies, a light breeze and warm - and, after two hours of travelling to get here, I was keen to get on my way.

   Today's course would take me over Mt Mukou to the Yanaki-toge Pass, where I would descend into the settlement of Ninose. From here I follow route-38 to the town of Kurama before heading-into the hills again, and the Yakko-zaka Pass. My descent would bring me to the settlement of Shizuhara, before re-entering the forest for the last time. At the end I would emerge at Ohara and a bus trip to Demachiyanage Station.

   My departure point was close to the confluence of the Kurama and Kamo Rivers. I was wary of the heavy rain the day before and, crossing the river, evidence of how heavy it had been was obvious. I was also conscience that the terrain might be just as hazardous.

   Soon the sounds of the roaring river were behind me then, after crossing a couple of streams, I was about to encounter my first hill-climb of the day. It was quite steep but very-well maintained, as can be seen in this image. As I was in no hurry, I didn't push myself but, with the thick outdoor jacket I was wearing, I was beginning to sweat and huff-and-puff.

   After 10-minutes I arrived at this bench and the opportunity to shed the jacket and take in the views below, before continuing. As I made my way up towards Mt Mukou I encountered more rest sites, offering more vistas of the north-western suburbs of Kyoto City. Arriving at the summit I immediately realized that I had been here before - a couple of years ago, while hiking from Kumogahata to Ninose, I took a side track to Mt Mukou and, upon arrival, placed it on my 'must return' list, to see where it emerged. So, unbeknown to me, here I was.

  

Map Location.

   Ten minutes later I arrived at the Yonaki-toge Pass, where I would join the Tokaido Road, and we would stay together until we reached Ohara. The descent into the settlement of Ninose would be steep and zigzaggy and care would be needed. 

Map Location.

  


   At the base of the hill is the Moriya-jinja Shrine, and an opportunity to take a break before moving on. Recent storms had left it's mark on the complex and the two trees that were responsible for causing the damage were still evident. I have a huge respect for the elements, but it's at times like this I wish it wouldn't cause so much damage. Leaving the shrine, I crossed the Eizan Rail-Line that would run parallel with me until I reached Kurama, and passed through the settlement of Ninose.

Crossing a bridge, I saw many  Sakura in the final stages of shedding their bloom before the green leaves took over. Being in Japan at this time of year is a delight, especially when celebrating Hanami. 

   Just up the road from Ninose, at the junction of routes 38 & 361, is this giant vermilion-colored Torii signifying the entrance to the area known as Kibune and the Kifune-jinja Shrine. This is a popular area for tourists and there is a track that takes you over a hill, linking Kubune to Kurama. But that is a day-trip on it's own. Unless you have the time & energy, then check the area out.

Map Location.

    Next stop is Kurama but, before passing-through, I call into the Kurama Station area and pay my respects to this giant Tengu. It's quite a greeting to those that have just alighted the train and is a very popular photo opportunity.
   A hundred meters up from the entrance to the Kurama-dera Temple is my next turn-off and a return to the hills and forest I so enjoy hiking in.

   
   Immediately after crossing a bridge is this noticeboard, with course map and a warning of the possibility of one encountering bears. The map is the course the 'Tokaodo Road' takes but, as the 'Kyoto Trail' is encompassed within the 'road, it serves a dual purpose. As the area is a popular hiking destination, there are many tracks within the area, and one has to pay attention to staying on the right path. Like I didn't. A track, running parallel to mine - or so I thought - took me in another direction and, through sheer luck, I managed to rejoin my course.

   

  



   All wasn't lost though. I did manage to encounter a couple of photo opportunities during my short detour, along with providing the impetus to return and check-out other tracks in the area.

Map Location.

   My short & steep climb to the plateau, was followed by an equally short & steep descent where I emerged overlooking the settlement of Shizuhara, and a well deserved lunch-break. Having passed-through the area on bike, I knew where I was in relation to where I was going and I was doing good time. So I was in no hurry to move-on.

   Sitting on the Kagura-den, at the Shizuhara-jinja Shrine, was the perfect location to have my break. The location provided ideal vistas overlooking the settlement and surrounding countryside. While sitting here I was soon joined by a fellow outdoorholic, who had just hiked from the Demachyanagi area of Kyoto, over the mountain in front of us, and decided to take-a-break at the shrine. From here he was heading to Kurama, where he would catch the train and eventually home. For a seventy-year-old, he had accomplished a lot during his hiking career and, after 20-years, had just completed the 'Kansai Hyakumeizan' (100-mountains in the Kansai Region). Quite a feat.

   Regretfully it was time to move on. My new-found friend was a very interesting fellow hiker and I could have talked and compared hikes longer. As I made my way out of Shizuhara I passed this interesting garden display. The things one encounters on their journeys.

   Soon my path left the sealed road and
I was back into familiar territory - dirt track, ambling stream, trees & more trees.

  








    15-minutes after leaving the sealed road of route-40, I was to rejoin it at this secluded shrine, and a Sakura still in full bloom. From this point my track follows the road for a hundred meters, but a track passing-through the concrete Torii, takes one to the summit of Mt Konpira and down into Ohara. I am now convinced that a return trip here is on the cards - watch this space.

   The final off-road segment was a gradual descent through a forest that followed this meandering stream, before emerging on the outskirts of Ohara. In front of me was the mountain range that borders Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures and is famous for such mountains as Mt Hiei, Mt Mizui and Mt Obi, to name a few. Passing through some farming plots - mainly vegetables - I arrived at this collection of signposts. It was at this point the 'Tokaido 

Map Location.

Road' and the 'Kyoto Trail' parted company, both heading in opposite directions. The signage was a bit confusing and required some serious thought and, after one failed attempt, I soon resumed my planned course. 

Map Location.

   By now I began to sense the days hike was nearing it's end. A bridge took me across the Takano River then up a narrow lane and, there in front of me, was post number-24, at the junction with route-367. Five-and-a-quarter hours, and eleven-point-five kilometers after leaving route-61, I had reached my goal. The bus-timetable across the road told me I had 10-minutes before the next bus, enough time to reflect on my day. 

    Looking through the images of my trip, like this one on the right, I realize how privileged I was to have experienced such beautiful scenery and of the lone hiker I met at the Shizuhara Shrine.

   As I compose this post my mind is working on a plan to return to the area and, hopefully, that trip won't be too far away. And that will be another post. So, until then . . . .

                                                                        Sayonara.

   Video - https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=bCoYOLBlpzo

   Course details and images - https://ridewithgps.com/trips/14055518 

Exploring Tayama.

    It was a map of cycling courses through the tea-growing district of southern Kyoto Prefecture, that drew my attention to the settlement of Tayama. It was an area that I had passed-through, on one of my many cycling tours but, on this occasion, I decided to explore the settlement more closely. The map showed a couple of shrines - one hidden atop a hill amongst the many tea plantations and the other on another hill overlooking the town - and a cafe located in a disused school.

Map Location.

   My plan was to cycle to the Kasagi-ohashi Bridge, about 32km from home, set-up my cameras, have a banana, washed-down with some water, then head-off along a track that followed the Kizu River. The track is part of the 'Tokaido Road' which was created about four hundred years ago for travellers who migrated between Edo (modern day Tokyo) and Naniwa (modern day Osaka).

   Along the first 5-kilometers of track I was to experience an assortment of Shinto & Buddhist Stone Markers. These are always a favorite of mine as one can come-across them in some of the most isolated of places. 

   On my left is the Kizugawa River. This river has a very large catchment basin and, whenever there has been rain, especially a downpour, this river very-quickly becomes a raging torrent. Evidence of a recent typhoon were still lying several meters up the river-bank and bridges were being cleared of debris.

Map Location.

   My next stop was at the settlement of Asukaji and the Amaterasumikado-jinja Shrine. Tucked-away amongst the trees, this complex is an ideal place to take-a-break and soak in the serenity of your surroundings. There has been a shrine on this site for over 1,200-years.

   As I passed through Asukaji I was soon to be reminded that it was 'that' time of year again - rice harvesting. It just seems like yesterday that the fields were being prepared for planting. How time flies.

                                                                                                                   In places the path becomes narrow and overgrown and, all around me, is evidence of a typhoon that had just passed over a few days prior to my visit. I had one narrow escape, as can be seen on the video, of where I nearly cycled into a fallen tree. 

   Immediately below me, on my left, is the Kizugawa River. I am always mindful, when cycling along tracks such as this, to be aware of others, especially hikers. Medical treatment in Japan is very expensive and the cost of paying someones hospital bills would leave a very large hole in my bank account. 





   I soon pass through the settlement of Minamiokawara and my first junction of the day. About 4-kilometers along route-82 the Tokaido Road and I part company, at . . . .

Map Location.

 . . . . the Takayama Dam. It's difficult to imagine, when looking at this construction, what the view was 400-years ago. There was probably just a stream the migrants had to contend with back then.

Map Location.

   Two kilometers further up-the-road I arrive at this impressive bridge that spans Lake Tsukigase. On the far side is my destination - Tayama. But, before I cross, I take a moment to soak-in my surroundings. If I only had a kayak. 

   Tayama is about 1-kilometer from the other side of the bridge, which I pass through in search of Gongen-jinja Shrine. Once there I plan to have a break and a bite-to-eat. But I have to find it first. I am aware, after studying 'Google Maps', that there are many lanes/paths criss-crossing the hills and the shrine is located in there somewhere. This is where a local farmer comes to my assistance. With the few words of English he knows, he is able to give me directions that, if I have paid attention, should get me to my destination. I head-off up the first lane that emerges into a tea plantation. Just as I arrive there, my farmer friend appears in his small truck, after having taken another lane, to give me further directions. I couldn't express enough how grateful I was for his assistance. 

   As you can see in the satellite-image, Gongen-jinja is very isolated, to say the least and, upon arrival, you can't help but get the impression it has seen better days. But the surrounding views and the serenity makes one appreciate the beauty of the countryside.




   I am particularly intrigued with this Chozuya. As there was no visible water system, I assume someone brings some in a pail or rainwater is the other option.With all this beauty and serenity surrounding me, what better location to break for lunch.
   My return to the settlement, and my next shrine in the area, is via an alternative lane - quite possibly the one my farmer friend used earlier - but, before entering Suwa-jinja Shrine, I stop to admire the stone markers at the entrance.

                                                                                                                                                                I am impressed with this Sekibutsu as it hasn't been carved into solid rock, but what looks like a slab of rock. The L-shaped slab wouldn't be more than 3-cm thick. 

   Suwa-jinja is very imposing, not just for it's size and grandeur, but how it overlooks the settlement of Tayama. Wherever one stands in the town, the shrine is there for all to see.

                                                                                                                                                                Just off the main street of Tayama, is this disused elementary school that has been taken-over by several craft shops and this . . . .

. . . . quaint cafe. Walking into Cafe Nekopan was like going back 50-years, to when I attended Primary School at Dunsandel. It just seems like it was yesterday. The cafe has a very-appetizing menu and I highly recommend to anyone who is likely to be in the area.


   After a glass of ice-tea, courtesy of the owner, I move on. By this point I have clocked-up 50-kilometers and am still a long way from home. But, as I still have the energy, I decide to take another route back to Kasagi and more sightseeing.

Map Location.

   Like this bridge and settlement at the head of Lake Tsukigase. From this point to Kasagi, 14-kilometers away, I'm going to experience my first hill climbs of the day and I need to pace myself because, after reaching Kasagi, I still have 30-kilometers before reaching home. 

    An hour, and three hill-climbs later, I arrive at the town of Yagyu. The town was made famous for housing one of the oldest schools of swordsmanship in Japan - Yagyu Shinkage-ryu.
   But it's this Sekibutsu that I am keen to revisit, as-well-as have a bite to eat and take on water. This stone marker is very significant to those trying to conceive. What you do, is come here, along with a tray of Tofu, place the tray at the base of the icon, pray, then go away and hope for the best.
   From here to Kasagi it's downhill all the way. I arrive at the bridge that I departed from four-and-a-half hours and 37-kilometers earlier and am praying I have a tail wind home. The trip along route-163 - a busy highway at the best of times - can be hell if there is a head wind. But the gods are on my side and I am helped all the way home.

                                                            So, until next time,

                                                                     Sayonara.  

Course details and map - https://ridewithgps.com/trips/10851435

Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TWME855DFc