Back on my feet again.

      May 2018, and I was out hiking the hills on the Eastern border of Kyoto Prefecture, in an area known as Hino-no Satoyama. It was a clear, calm & fine day, perfect conditions for hiking. I remember arriving home feeling elated, although, in saying that, I experience that emotion most times I return home from a days hiking.
   Over the coming weeks my joy would be shattered when I began to feel some discomfort with my left knee. After applying a salve and strapping to the area, all to no avail, I headed-off to the doctor. The diagnosis was the cartilage over the said knee was the cause of my problem and I needed to rest-up until it healed. I thought my life had come to an end. But the news wasn't all bad. Cycling was okay, and beneficial to the healing process. Now, almost a year after that near-fateful day, I feel I can get my gear out of storage, and go hiking again. 

Map location.

     I have a couple of big hikes I want to do but, to be on the safe side, I want to do a warm-up hike before I attempt either. So I have chosen an area around the periphery of Fushimi Inari-taisha, in Kyoto City. It was the chance discovery of this concrete Torii on the Daigo-michi Road - a hilly road that connects the wards of Higashiyama & Yamashina - that alerted me to a network of tracks around the base of (Mt)Inariyama. I did a couple of exploratory bike-rides into the area and bookmarked the area for when the problem with my knee was sorted-out. Well, the time has come. Will my knee be up to it? My plan is to enter the area from the Higashiyama side, after arriving at the Keihan Tobakaido Station.

Map location.

     
     I arrived at the station just on 9am and was eager to be on my way but, in the back of my mind, I was feeling some apprehension as to how my knee would respond. The conditions couldn't be more perfect - clear, calm, fine & warm. My first stop was at the southern entrance to Tokufu-ji Temple - this is an enormous complex and is a day-tour in itself. As seen in this satellite image.

     The street I have been walking along for the past ten-or-so minutes, suddenly ends and I descend down a flight of steps to a junction where three tracks converge. A post, placed there by the guardians of the 'Kyoto Trail', points me, in one direction, to Fushimi Inari-taisha,in another, to Sennyu-ji Temple, and the third to (Mt)Inariyama. My course is via the third route but, before I proceed, I take a short detour to Fushikura-Daijin Shrine (map location). This complex has seen better days and, as one reviewer said - "This site has been returned to nature". My sentiments exactly. The shrine emits an eerie atmosphere, bordering on spooky.

   
      Moving on from Fushikura-Daijin, I leave the sounds of the city behind and head-into a territory I enjoy so much, and my next junction. It's just on 9:30am and the sun is streaming in through the trees, illuminating the canopy of overhanging leaves.

     I reach my next junction, where four tracks converge. Two of those tracks, in the left of the image, are part of a circuit that takes the hiker through to (Mt)Inariyama and ends-up back at this point. I take this track, but I don't plan to return here. Instead I hope to descend down to another shrine and make my way in the other direction. 

   It's not quite 10am, and already I am beginning to work-up a sweat. I reach a clearing and decide to take-a-break. Some of this section has required some steep climbing and, although my knee seems to be bearing-up, I don't want to risk aggravating the cartilage. A little further on and another junction. Here I can descend into Yamashina or proceed. Needless-to-say what option I take.

     Next stop is at this interesting collection monuments, small shrines and religious icons.

     The 'Google Map' app' on my smartphone informs me I have arrived at Oiwa-Inari Shrine. Although this complex was on my itinerary, I didn't realize it extended this far up the hill. But there was more to come.

   About now I wasn't quite sure exactly where I was, then this tree with attached sign relieved any anxieties I was beginning to have. I was still on course and proceeded.

   

     From the junction my track proceeded along a plateau for a couple-of-hundred meters, before suddenly descending and emerging at a collection of Torii. 

      At this site was a large platform constructed over a deep ravine, with a small shrine erected on top. Behind the shrine was a large rock-face with a collection of Torii of various shapes & sizes.

   

From the platform my path descended down more steps to emerge . . . .

. . . . at another collection of Torii and religious icons. One would be forgiven for thinking they were actually at Fushimi-Inari. This, according to my map app', is Oiwa-Inari Shrine and is a very large complex. As seen on this satellite map.

   Emerging from Oiwa-Inari, I arrive at this junction. I have now joined the 'Kyoto Trail' - a 80km trail that partly circumnavigates Kyoto City - and, whereas the trail heads straight-ahead to my next destination, I turn left here, and take a shortcut through an industrial area, being careful not to be run-over by the many trucks carrying aggregate.

   My course takes me under the Meishin Expressway then across a busy road, before re-entering another forest and onto my next stop.

  

 
     Oiwa-jinja Shrine (map location) is located on the highest peak of Mt Fukakusa, Mt Oiwa. The name means 'Honorable Grass', as it provided feed for Tokugawa Ieyasu's horse when he rested here on his way to Kyoto. The shrine is famous for it's male & female deities, which are believed to reside in the two Iwa (boulders) near the peak.

    
      I emerge from the forest onto a gravel road and arrive at the (Mt)Oiwayama observation platform, and my first break for the day. Although I have only been on the trail for two-hours, it's been quite a strenuous journey so far. Sitting here, in front and below me is an awesome view.

     And this is the view. To my far left I can see the skyscrapers of Osaka City. Just in front of me is Fushi Momoyama Castle (on the treeline on the left), my next destination. And Kyoto City makes-up the remainder of my panorama. What a view, and what a glorious day to appreciate it while having lunch.

   Lunch over, I make a beeline for Fushimi Kitabori Park and onto my next stop . . . .

. . . . Fushimi Momoyama Castle.

Map location.

     The current structure is a 1964 replica of the one built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the original built in 1594. The castle is rarely open to the public, which is a pity, as the view from the upper Tenshu would be awesome. I have visited this site many times over the years and never tire of coming here. The grounds are abound with many Sakura and is a popular destination for those wanting a quiet location to celebrate Hanami, as I did on one occasion. The grounds, that the castle is sited, is very large, as can be seen in this satellite map, and is rich in history. Many Japanese come here to pay to homage to Emperors who are entombed here. In one area is the Tomb of Emperor Kanmu and, in another area, is the Tomb of Emperor Meiji.

      From the castle I make my way to the Keihan Fushimi Momoyama Station and home. But, before I catch my train, I treat myself to a celebratory can-of-beer and reflect on the past three-and-a-half hours. Because of the joy to be out hiking again, plus the great scenery I have experienced, I had forgotten all about my knee. But I'm not going allow myself to become too complacent. If any harm has been done, it won't be until the following day before any symptoms emerge. I wake the next morning, my legs feel a bit stiff, which is normal after a hike, and I test my luck by heading-out for a short bike-ride. I return feeling elated that my knee has passed the test. So now I can go-ahead and plan a more substantial hike. And that, I hope, will be another story.

As always, thank-you for reading and, until next time,

Sayonara.

   Video of hike - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqxcqfN1Umc&t=3s

   Course details & map - https://www.strava.com/activities/2303372709

   

Hisashiburidesu - Fushimi, Higashiyama & Yamashina Wards, Kyoto City.

                                                                                                             In September I signed-up with 'Strava' so as to take advantage of their G.P.S. tracking and the opportunity to share my rides with other like-minded cyclists and outdoorholics and, if possible, discover new routes that may be of interest to me.

Torii, entrance to Atago-jinja Shrine.

   One such post alerted me to the 'Daigo-Michi' Road. This thoroughfare connects the area around Tofuku-ji Temple , in Higashiyama, with the residential area of Yamashina. It's a narrow windy lane, with many hairpin turns on the Yamashina side but, if you have enough gears on your bike, it's quiet easy to navigate, whatever direction you cycle it.
   Towards the base of the hill, on the Yamashina side, is this unobtrusive concrete Torii. After my third-or-fourth trip over the hill, my curiosity got the better of me, and I decided that this site needed checking-out. And I am very pleased I did take the time to do just that, as this was to become the beginning of something big.

   Locking my bike to a fence, I proceeded on foot and, about a hundred meters up an incline, was a derelict collection of buildings and religious icons that added an eerie feeling to the site. This was Atago-jinja Shrine. Map location - https://goo.gl/maps/FcfoRB4Led12

     The path continued further up the hill and, as my curiosity was getting the better of me, I proceeded. Several hundred meters on and I arrived at this junction of four tracks. I decided to leave it at this point with the intention to return once I had done some research on the area, and check-out what lay beyond. And my research revealed that I was in the vicinity of Fushimi-Inari Taisha. By now a plan was beginning to build in my mind but, before I set it in motion, I needed to go for a reconnaissance bike-ride; any excuse to get-out for a ride. 

   On a cold and miserable morning, with remnants of the previous evenings snow falling from the overhead canopy, I headed to the Higashiyama side to check if-and-where the track emerged. Upon arrival at the track-head I discovered the 'Kyoto Trail' - an 80km track that circumnavigates the city - passed through the area. This was getting better-and-better, and I was beginning to envisage a great ride in the making. Course map & details - https://www.strava.com/activities/2105734754 

   The big day arrived. I had done all my research and, barring any mistakes and other unforced errors, set-out from home in ideal conditions - clear, calm & warm. I made a beeline for Atago-jinja, taking another couple of photos, and headed for the track junction. Upon arrival I was greeted by a young American who, as it turned-out, was a local tour guide out with a client. As he knew the area like the back of his hand, he gave me some very invaluable advice. Which I was most grateful for. As they were heading in the same direction, I tagged-along behind and, in doing so, missed my turn-off, and ended up at the precincts of Fushimi-Inari.

  

   After a quick u-turn, I headed back to the missed junction and from there out into familiar terrain. The first 'Kyoto Trail' sign I encountered, I followed, which was to take me in the direction of Sennyu-ji Temple (map location), and on.

    Exiting the Sennyu-ji complex, I soon found myself crossing the Daigo-Michi Road and into a forest where remnants of last August storm were still being cleared; the 'Kyoto Trail' is maintained by volunteers and, as it is a popular course, work gangs would have been out at the first opportunity to clear any fallen trees, as can be seen in the images on the left.
   Like the previous section, there was very little opportunity to ride my bike plus, not knowing where & when I would encounter a hiker, the risk of hitting someone was high. This being a weekend day. 
   
   The track made a sudden descent and emerged onto the Higashiyama Driveway. A bridge took me over route-1, a main arterial road in-and-out of Kyoto City, and on up to the Higashiyama Mount Peak Park and Observatory (map location). The 90-degree view from the observatory allowed one to see as far as Yamazaki & Yawata to my left, south-west, and Kurama to my right, north, with great views of the city front & below.
   Backtracking a short distance, onto the Driveway, I soon arrived at Sanjo Dori, another busy arterial road.
From here I cycled to Kawabata-dori, where I soon joined the Kamogawa River cycleway and on home. Course map & details - https://www.strava.com/activities/2118245057  Upon arrival home I was buzzing with joy, but I felt I needed to return as there something - another track, religious site - that I needed to explore. And a week later, I did just that. 

    On this occasion I returned to Higashiyama and made my way up to the junction, where I had met the young tour guide the week before, and too one  of the other tracks that lead into the forest.

   As I commenced, I noticed how well the track was clearly marked, some of which were in the form red tape, with a black arrow pointing in the direction I was heading. This indicated that this was a course that, I surmised, returned to the junction I had just left. Before long I reached another junction, with a track branching-off to my left. Curious, I took it. It came to a sudden end when I arrived at a monument - above image - before returning to my original course. A little further on, another junction. Thankfully a lone hiker was here who translated where each track led. Apart from the one I had arrived on, one of the other tracks let to the summit of ((Mt)Inariyama, the other down to Yamashina. As I didn't want to repeat my encounter with Fushimi-Inari the week before, I decided on Yamashina.

   

   The track was steep in places, and well maintained. Partway down I came-across this small shrine partly camouflaged by trees. I could hear the many sounds of civilization rising to greet me, but I was unsure exactly where I would emerge. In the following minutes that question would be answered, when I emerged onto the Daigo-Michi Road. 

   As I had no plan from this point, I decided to head back up the road, and link-up with the 'Kyoto Trail'. And from there through to the junction of the Higashiyama Driveway. This bench, at the plateau of this section, provided an ideal location for a break and a bite-to-eat.

Map Location.

 




    I had heard about this tunnel, and was interested in checking it out for myself. It turned out to be a pedestrian/cycling tunnel that ran parallel to route-1.
   As I now knew where I was, it was time to call it a day, and head for home. I took route-1 towards Yamashina, where I connected with a cycleway alongside a stream. From there to Rokujizo, Yawata and home. 
   Course map & details - https://www.strava.com/activities/2135765242

Hisashiburidesu - continued.

   My cycling wasn't just limited to exploring new areas and paths. Inbetween these marathon rides, I would incorporate a shorter outing as part of my rehabilitation, for example - 

                                                                                                                                                                                                        'Tiki-Tour around Kyoto', where the first snowfall of the season appeared on (Mt)Atago-san and other hills surrounding the western suburbs of the city.

   This trip - 'Ride through Yamashiro, Wazuka, Kamo & Kizu Towns' - took me to the eastern reaches of Kyoto Prefecture, and tea-growing country. This is one of my most favorite areas as there is always a new track to check-out and a surprise around every corner.

End of the road.

   
   Now this ride - 'Off-road cycling through Ujitawara Town' - didn't go as planned. It had been some time since I last did a butt-gusting, mountain-biking, getting dirty bike-ride, and I was keen to rectify that. And this area is the ideal location for just that. But, what I didn't take into account, was the residue left behind from the massive storm of the previous August. So, when I reached this wall of fallen trees blocking my path, I realized I was pushing the proverbial uphill and a u-turn was the result. 

   Then there are those relaxing outings with my wife, where we would make our way to a chosen eating establishment, and chill-out over a nice lunch. And, if we had the energy, finish-up at our local Starbucks.

   With the arrival of the New-Year, I set myself a goal for 2019. That was to complete 150-outings over the following 52-weeks. That is based on three rides per week. With us already 8-weeks into 2019, I have already logged-up 31-rides. During 2018 I discovered this interesting website - 'Love to Ride' - that is designed to encourage people to ride bikes; with this site my 'Strava' rides are automatically logged onto my L.t.R. page. It's important that I don't turn this into an obsession, and stick to my purpose for riding a bike - health, enjoyment, appreciation.

   A few weeks ago I discovered an area to the east of Kyoto City - Fushimi-ku, Higashiyama-ku and Yamashina-ku. I have spent many hours cycling through these wards, but never payed much attention to what actually lies hidden amid the forested hills that overlook this part of the city. But that was about to change.

To be continued . . . .