Hisashiburidesu - Fushimi, Higashiyama & Yamashina Wards, Kyoto City.

                                                                                                             In September I signed-up with 'Strava' so as to take advantage of their G.P.S. tracking and the opportunity to share my rides with other like-minded cyclists and outdoorholics and, if possible, discover new routes that may be of interest to me.

Torii, entrance to Atago-jinja Shrine.

   One such post alerted me to the 'Daigo-Michi' Road. This thoroughfare connects the area around Tofuku-ji Temple , in Higashiyama, with the residential area of Yamashina. It's a narrow windy lane, with many hairpin turns on the Yamashina side but, if you have enough gears on your bike, it's quiet easy to navigate, whatever direction you cycle it.
   Towards the base of the hill, on the Yamashina side, is this unobtrusive concrete Torii. After my third-or-fourth trip over the hill, my curiosity got the better of me, and I decided that this site needed checking-out. And I am very pleased I did take the time to do just that, as this was to become the beginning of something big.

   Locking my bike to a fence, I proceeded on foot and, about a hundred meters up an incline, was a derelict collection of buildings and religious icons that added an eerie feeling to the site. This was Atago-jinja Shrine. Map location - https://goo.gl/maps/FcfoRB4Led12

     The path continued further up the hill and, as my curiosity was getting the better of me, I proceeded. Several hundred meters on and I arrived at this junction of four tracks. I decided to leave it at this point with the intention to return once I had done some research on the area, and check-out what lay beyond. And my research revealed that I was in the vicinity of Fushimi-Inari Taisha. By now a plan was beginning to build in my mind but, before I set it in motion, I needed to go for a reconnaissance bike-ride; any excuse to get-out for a ride. 

   On a cold and miserable morning, with remnants of the previous evenings snow falling from the overhead canopy, I headed to the Higashiyama side to check if-and-where the track emerged. Upon arrival at the track-head I discovered the 'Kyoto Trail' - an 80km track that circumnavigates the city - passed through the area. This was getting better-and-better, and I was beginning to envisage a great ride in the making. Course map & details - https://www.strava.com/activities/2105734754 

   The big day arrived. I had done all my research and, barring any mistakes and other unforced errors, set-out from home in ideal conditions - clear, calm & warm. I made a beeline for Atago-jinja, taking another couple of photos, and headed for the track junction. Upon arrival I was greeted by a young American who, as it turned-out, was a local tour guide out with a client. As he knew the area like the back of his hand, he gave me some very invaluable advice. Which I was most grateful for. As they were heading in the same direction, I tagged-along behind and, in doing so, missed my turn-off, and ended up at the precincts of Fushimi-Inari.

  

   After a quick u-turn, I headed back to the missed junction and from there out into familiar terrain. The first 'Kyoto Trail' sign I encountered, I followed, which was to take me in the direction of Sennyu-ji Temple (map location), and on.

    Exiting the Sennyu-ji complex, I soon found myself crossing the Daigo-Michi Road and into a forest where remnants of last August storm were still being cleared; the 'Kyoto Trail' is maintained by volunteers and, as it is a popular course, work gangs would have been out at the first opportunity to clear any fallen trees, as can be seen in the images on the left.
   Like the previous section, there was very little opportunity to ride my bike plus, not knowing where & when I would encounter a hiker, the risk of hitting someone was high. This being a weekend day. 
   
   The track made a sudden descent and emerged onto the Higashiyama Driveway. A bridge took me over route-1, a main arterial road in-and-out of Kyoto City, and on up to the Higashiyama Mount Peak Park and Observatory (map location). The 90-degree view from the observatory allowed one to see as far as Yamazaki & Yawata to my left, south-west, and Kurama to my right, north, with great views of the city front & below.
   Backtracking a short distance, onto the Driveway, I soon arrived at Sanjo Dori, another busy arterial road.
From here I cycled to Kawabata-dori, where I soon joined the Kamogawa River cycleway and on home. Course map & details - https://www.strava.com/activities/2118245057  Upon arrival home I was buzzing with joy, but I felt I needed to return as there something - another track, religious site - that I needed to explore. And a week later, I did just that. 

    On this occasion I returned to Higashiyama and made my way up to the junction, where I had met the young tour guide the week before, and too one  of the other tracks that lead into the forest.

   As I commenced, I noticed how well the track was clearly marked, some of which were in the form red tape, with a black arrow pointing in the direction I was heading. This indicated that this was a course that, I surmised, returned to the junction I had just left. Before long I reached another junction, with a track branching-off to my left. Curious, I took it. It came to a sudden end when I arrived at a monument - above image - before returning to my original course. A little further on, another junction. Thankfully a lone hiker was here who translated where each track led. Apart from the one I had arrived on, one of the other tracks let to the summit of ((Mt)Inariyama, the other down to Yamashina. As I didn't want to repeat my encounter with Fushimi-Inari the week before, I decided on Yamashina.

   

   The track was steep in places, and well maintained. Partway down I came-across this small shrine partly camouflaged by trees. I could hear the many sounds of civilization rising to greet me, but I was unsure exactly where I would emerge. In the following minutes that question would be answered, when I emerged onto the Daigo-Michi Road. 

   As I had no plan from this point, I decided to head back up the road, and link-up with the 'Kyoto Trail'. And from there through to the junction of the Higashiyama Driveway. This bench, at the plateau of this section, provided an ideal location for a break and a bite-to-eat.

Map Location.

 




    I had heard about this tunnel, and was interested in checking it out for myself. It turned out to be a pedestrian/cycling tunnel that ran parallel to route-1.
   As I now knew where I was, it was time to call it a day, and head for home. I took route-1 towards Yamashina, where I connected with a cycleway alongside a stream. From there to Rokujizo, Yawata and home. 
   Course map & details - https://www.strava.com/activities/2135765242

Minouragatake, Konpirasan, Suitaiyama & Yakisugiyama . . . .

. . . . are four mountains in close proximity to the settlement of Shizuhara, in the northern suburbs of Kyoto City. 

   Konpirasan's existance I discovered in 2003, in Lonely Planet's guide to Hiking in Japan - the chapter on the Kansai Area. There was something about the course that appealed to me and was placed on my 'must see' list. Minouragatake I learnt of very recently, when I was sitting at this Kagura-den at the Shizuhara-jinja Shrine, when a fellow hiker stopped by and, during the course of our conversation, he told me of his days hike. So, after a few hours of pouring-over maps, I devised a course - I would commence my hike at the Ichihara Station (map location) and, from there I would make my way to Minouragatake (432m), then onto Konpirasan (572m), Suitaiyama (577m), Yakisugiyama (717m) and finishing at Ohara.

   I decided on an early start so I wasn't putting myself under any pressure and could complete the course at my leisure. I stepped onto the platform at 8am, after a 90-minute journey to get to this point, in perfect hiking conditions. My track proper was located in the far corner of a residential estate, about 10-minutes from the station and, within 100m, I was in my favorite environment. I took the long route to Minouragatake, not out of any personal desire, as I took the wrong track that almost caused me to loop back to where I started. Once I realized my error, I gave my map a study and soon found my way back on course - when I checked my G.P.S. upload, I was only a few meters away from my planned turn-off. 

   My track soon became a forestry road, which made my ascent a little easier. If I hadn't been paying attention though, I would have missed this junction to Minouragatake, as the sign was lying on the ground behind a shrub. From this point, to the summit, was a bit-of-a-grunt that required me to slow my pace. Even after taking-off my jacket at the station, I was beginning to feel the heat and was wondering if I should have brought more water. Hopefully, if need be, I could top-up somewhere along the way.

Map Location.

    Two hours after leaving Ichihara Station, I had conquered my first summit of the day, and a well-deserved cold drink and banana. The summit was shrouded by trees and offered no view of the surrounding district below. But, it's always an exhilarating feeling when one reaches the summit of any mountain, regardless of it's height.
   During my descent to the settlement of Shuzhara I encountered a couple of track junctions - a later perusal of my map revealed a network of tracks in the area - which gave me the incentive to return and check-out more of this area (watch this space).

     As I emerged from the forest, and into rice-growing country,  I espied this interesting water-wheel. The rotating motion of the wheel generated electricity that, I assume, was used to electrify the surrounding fence. Quite ingenious. 

   Unlike the last time I was in the area, on this occasion I didn't stop at Shuzuhara, but concentrated my energies on reaching Konpirasan for a well deserved lunch-break. My next stop was at this concrete Torii, heralding the gateway to the Kotohira Shingu Shrine, further up the mountain.

   The 'Lonely Planet' article talked about a pilgrimage in this area and, judging by the state of the path - well beaten, concrete-slabs for steps - I was now part of this historical trail. 

  

   About 20-minutes after leaving the Torii, I arrived at Kotohira Shingu Shrine,which was located at the junction of two paths. Behind the shrine is a small spring that is reputed to have water with healing powers.

                                                                           A few hundred meters on from Kotohira Shingu, and still climbing, I turned a corner and, upon a ridge in front of me, was another concrete Torii, heralding my arrival at the Kotohiragu-jinja Shrine.

   A path, leading me behind the small shrine, took me to my next photo-stop....

                                                                                                                                           . . . . and, what I assume, is part of Kotohiragu-jinja. Unfortunately I can't provide any information regarding the monument inside the fenced enclosure.

   A path,leading from the enclosure, took me to a junction where a sign pointed me in the direction of Konpirasan. And lunch. The 'Lonely Planet' article mentioned the views to be had in this section of the course. Any they weren't wrong about that. At this point I was rewarded with breathtaking views overlooking Ohara, with Mt Hiei (Hieizan) in the distance. The article also mentioned the area was popular with members of the rock-climbing fraternity. I could see why. The guide also mentioned this was a popular area for hikers. To this point I hadn't met with any other hikers. The only two people I saw was at Kotohira Shingu Shrine and, judging by what they were there for, they weren't hikers.

   So, you can imagine the relief I felt, when I exited the forest, that there was not another soul in sight - some popular mountain-summits can be so crowded that it's standing-room only - and I could eat lunch with nothing but the sounds of the great outdoors as company.

Map Location.

   Two hours after leaving Minouragatake, I had arrived at Konpirasan. My head was in a spin with all I had encountered over those past 120-minutes and, after 14-years after first hearing of this mountain, I just sat down, poured myself a coffee, had some bread rolls and a banana, and absorbed the moment. As I was doing good time, I was in no hurry to move on.

   As I left the summit, to make my way to Suitaiyama, I passed this interesting set of monuments. My research revealed some interesting information about this area - It is said that previously there were natural pots of fire, wind and rain on the top of this mountain and the people of Ohara Village prayed to them whenever there was a natural disaster.

   From the next junction my path made a steep descent, which was followed by an equally-steep ascent. Which was followed by another steep descent, which was followed by another equally-steep ascent. Which was followed by . . . .  - I think you get my drift. 

     Suitaiyama, my third summit of the day, was less than a kilometer away and, after all the descents & ascents - four in all - I was ready to take on more water and boost my energy source with another banana. Thinking that was the end of the roller-coaster path, I was mistaken and, for the following 2km, until I reached Yakisugiyama, I had to get used to this type of terrain.

   At the base of one of my descents, at the junction of two paths, I stumbled-across this very friendly group of hikers. My first contact with other hikers of the day. We had a great chat about our days hike, and where we had been and were going to. As it turned-out, we were heading in the same direction, Ohara, albeit via different routes. 

    After parting company with my fellow outdoorholics, my path arrived at a plateau until I reached Yakisugiyama, my fourth and final peak of the day. I had done it, and the exhilaration I felt is indescribable. Another mouthful of water and a banana, and time to make my final descent of the day.

   The next kilometer my path took me along the ridge. Below me I began to hear the sounds of civilization - vehicles travelling along route-367 - when I emerged at this clearing. Below me was the village of Ohara, with the mountain range that separates the prefectures of Kyoto and Shiga behind. What I was about to experience I would rate as one of the most scariest moments of all my outdoor activities, in the forty years I have been doing this.

   From where I stood, to where I arrived at Ohara, my path would drop 273-meters, over a distance of 1-kilometer. The path, of loose stone and rock, zig-zagged in about 20-meter sections, with very little to grab hold of that was secure. One slip, and I would find myself surfing over the edge. One trip, and I would find myself rolling over the edge. There were a couple of respites though, like these power-pylons.
   So . . . .

Map Location.

. . . . as you can no-doubt guess, I was relieved when my track emerged onto the sealed lane that was the entrance to the Kochidaniamida-ji Temple. 
  From here, it was a 2.5km walk that followed Takanogawa River, through the settlement of Ohara, to a bus terminal, and a bus back to Kyoto. After having only encountered a handful of people during my hike, I was now amongst a throng of tourists who were waiting to catch the same bus.

   As I was in no hurry to catch that bus - it was only 3pm - I found a path that led to the river, where I sat-down, peeled-off my boots, and consumed any food and coffee left-over from my day. I also needed the time to chill-out, as I was on a high (no pun intended) after what I had achieved.

                                                              Until next time,

                                                                           Sayonara.

Course details and images - https://ridewithgps.com/trips/14326939 

The attached video has no narration, I have relied on the sounds of the outdoors. 

Otaki Waterfalls and Shrine.

     The settlement of Yuyadani (map location) is nestled-amongst the hills of rural Ujitawara and is encompassed within an area known as 'The tea growing capitol of Japan'.

   The settlement was home to Nagatani Soen (1681-1788) who was responsible for developing a method of manufacturing Sencha Green Tea that led to today's mainstream tea. A museum, and former residence of Soen, still stands today and is open to the public.
   
      I have passed-through this area many times over the years, on two feet and on two wheels, and the settlement always reminds me of an era long time passed. But today's trip takes me up another valley in search of the Otaki Waterfalls and Shrine (map location). If it wasn't for the kind soul who posted this facility onto Google Maps, I would never have known of it's existence.

    After a 30km x 90-minute bike-ride, I arrived at a junction that separated the two valleys of Yuyadani and, since my last visit here, I noticed the local council had posted an information sign detailing visiting-sites in the vicinity. After a quick drink and a banana, I was off.

                                                                                                                                                                The open area between the valleys, used for rice-growing . . . .

      . . . . soon became compressed as I made my way up the valley. Driving a motor vehicle through here could prove inconvenient, especially if one encountered a vehicle coming the other way. This small Jizo, always a favorite of mine, caught my attention.









    I was soon to encounter my first sign of what the area is famous for - 

   a tea plantation. Albeit a small one.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                               By now my surroundings were becoming more densely forested and my path more steeper.

  

 
                                                                                                                                     Because of the increased gradient, and another Jizo I needed to photograph, I decided to walk the rest of the way.



   I didn't have far to go though. A couple-of-hundred meters further up was a collection of buildings and the distinct sound of cascading water. I had arrived at . . . .

. . . . the Otaki Waterfalls and Shrine. In Japan, in the Shinto tradition, waterfalls are held as sacred and standing under them is believed to purify. Many of the waterfalls I have visited one can see an area, at the base, where someone would stand or a spout, jutting-out at the top, for the purification ceremony.

   I park my bike and set-out to discover the complex and, after a few short steps, am rewarded with the magnificent sight of a series of waterfalls.

      Crossing a small bridge, I stand between a small building and the Torii. A set of stone steps leads up to the falls and a discovery.

   Located under an overhanging rock, is this small statue of Daimyojin, the God of World Rectification. An imposing sight, especially it's location. I am keen to clamber my way further up, to the the upper waterfall but, with the ground wet from recent rain and wearing only cycling shoes, I don't take the risk.

   I turn to take a look below me and, as I do, I notice this Setsumatsusha, or auxiliary shrine to my left. If I thought my earlier view looking up was magnificent, the view from this point was spectacular. 



   It's cold, being the middle of winter, and I need to move on. I still have a ride home and more to see. So I say farewell to the Otaki Waterfalls and Shrine and head to the hills. I am keen to return, and hike up the hill overlooking the 'falls, but that won't be until it's not so wet underfoot.

                                                   So, until next time, Sayonara.

   Video.