The [S]Torii Continues.

   'The [S]Torii Continues', not a bad pun if I say so myself. All witticisms aside, it's that time again where my obsessive tendencies resurface, and I can't get something out of my head until I do something about it. This time the guilty object is this metal Torii I discovered along route-186, in an area bordering Nara and Tenri cities or, more accurately, the settlement of Nakahatacho.

   I was in the area on my 'Rural Nara Circuit' ride, and had just emerged from the settlement of Yadawaracho, onto route-186. A few hundred meters along from the junction, was this metal Torii, partly camouflaged by trees and assorted undergrowth and, I am hesitant to add, discarded refuse. After leaning my bike against a tree, I decided on a quick scout-around for any sign of a Shinto Shrine - nothing ( although I only took a fleeting look). Since returning home, I decided to take a closer look but not return via the same route and, while in the area, I might-as-well check-out what lies in the settlements and lanes of this area of Nara. I decided to make Kasagi Town my destination.

   I made a bee-line for Yasaka-jinja Shrine (Map Location), which lies on the border separating the city area of Nara from the rural. After a quick banana and setting-up my cameras, I was off onto a lane that has painful memories for me - several years ago, while ascending this lane, during the peak of summer, I collapsed of heat exhaustion. Luckily today it was much cooler and I experienced no problems.

     As I was making my descent onto route-80, I came-across this interesting site. To the casual passer-by, this may look like a derelict shed but, upon closer look, there is a large Buddhist Icon inside - maybe a Jizo. There were fresh flowers at the altar, indicating someone had been here recently. Outside, camouflaged by an assortment of undergrowth, was this well. The conclusion I came to was, with ladles close-by, that this may be a Chozuya. From here my lane emerged onto route-80 and the settlement of Yadawaracho, which I planned to take a closer-look at but, before that, I was to re-enter the rural environment and make my way to 'The Torii'.

Map Location.

    

   It was still there - not that I doubted it wouldn't be - and, when I found a suitable place to park my bike, I took a photo of the name plate (image on the right) and forwarded it to a friend to see if he could shed any light on the matter. Then I set-off to explore the site. A track, of sorts, attracted my attention and I decided to check where it went. I gradually descended, following a small stream, that eventually joined a larger stream, and signs that this was part of a hiking course - red tags tied to trees, discarded litter - but nothing to suggest the presence of a shrine.

   This is the environment I like & appreciate so much and I soon found myself in a trance as I admired my surroundings. While here I accessed my 'Google Maps' site to check my location. It was then I got a shock - I have been in this area before. Some years ago, when exploring the site where a castle (Tsubakio-jo) once stood, I bush-bashed down through a dense forest to a stream that eventually emerged amongst civilization. In this instance, the settlement of Kitatsubaocho. This was that stream.

   As I was only wearing my cycling shoes, I decided to end my exploration here (maybe returning later) and return to my bike. As I arrived I received a message from my friend with some very interesting information. The inscription reads - "Hachidai Ryuou Oogami" (the attached link is very interesting)- and is about the God who shaped the Dragon with eight bodies and is said to be the God of Water. 

   Now it was time to check-out the settlement of Yadawaracho, and some interesting surprises. The first of them being . . . .

  . . . . this Indian restaurant. Located where three narrow lanes converge, 'Vanam' is one of those places you would come to, to get-away from the city and all it's trappings. It is a combination of restaurant, cafe and cooking-class. As-much-as I would have loved to stay (has been placed on my 'must return' list) I needed to move-on. The reason why I chose this area was that, according to 'Google Maps', there was a museum opposite the restaurant. Sadly someone got the location wrong and it was further away.

   Lanes through settlements like Yadawaracho are like the vascular system of the human body, so I just cruised up-and-around and around-and-back, with no set course in mind.

   Then, just as I was cruising along a narrow lane (narrow enough to allow one vehicle at a time, albeit a small vehicle), out of the corner-of-my-eye I spotted this vermilion-colored Ryobu Torii. So named after the long association with Ryobu Shinto. As I was standing here, contemplating what to do next, a local approached me with a map of the settlement with local sights. This is the entrance to Tenmangu Shrine (Map Location), a hilltop shrine.

   With three flights of rock steps from this side, and a track descending on the other, needless-to-say what my plan was. With a flat stone row on either side of the steps, I thought this would be a piece-of-cake. I didn't bank on the following two flights not having these stones. But it was worth the struggle.

   As I neared the end of the third flight, I turned a corner, and there it was - Tenmangu-jinja. And what a sight. As I was doing good time, and my body wasn't showing any signs of exhaustion, I decided to take a short rest, take-on some fluids, have a banana, take the obligatory photos, before moving on. Places like this are so serene and quiet one doesn't feel like leaving. Although the peace was about to be broken by the mandatory fire sirens that go-off at this time of day, 12pm.

   The track descending from Tenmangu-jinja, didn't just give access to the shrine, but the tea plantations that dotted this side of the hill, and was quite overgrown with grass. Making the track a bit hairy in places. So care was needed. 

   Once back on the sealed road, my next destination was the Mausoleum of Emperor Konin (Map Location). Emperor Konin was the 49th Emperor of Japan, and sat on the throne from 770 -to- 781, before handing-over the reins to his son, Yamabe. Emperor Konin died a year later at the age of 73.

   My next destination was the Yagyuuyamaguchi-jinja, and a long-overdue lunch-break. But, before then, some serious and dense bush track to contend with. I was in familiar terrain, having cycled & hiked through this area several times in the past, and was keen to photograph a Sekibutsu that I knew existed in this area. But sadly it wasn't to be this day. The bush was so dense I had to give-up on the idea and rejoin the sealed road. Not to worry, there were other carvings of the like I was to experience.

                                                                                                                A few kilometers down from where I emerged from the bush, I turned a corner and was greeted with this sight - rural Japan at it's very best. In this instance, the settlement of Oyagyu. It would have been a more magnificent sight before the rice fields were harvested. All that green. 

   Yagyuuyamaguchi-jinja is located along the 'Old Yagyu Road', a road that was created to connect the town of Yagyu with Nara, at the time when a Kenjutsu, or a school for swordsmanship, was created here in 1565. It is a great road to walk and requires a full day to complete.

   But, for me, my main concern was to satisfy my hunger and take-on some fuel. I knew I was close to my destination of Kasagi, and another 30km after that to home, so I needed to rest-up before moving-on.

   After passing-through the town of Oyagyu, my next destination was the settlement of Sakaharacho and this stone carving of Buddha. This is a very small example of this type of icon, and, if not paying attention, very easily missed. The lane I was cycling on was narrow, windy and, in places, dangerous. As I discovered earlier, when I nearly came in contact with a postman, you never know what is coming-around the next corner. This is the first (it would have been the second if the bush wasn't so dense) carving of the day, the next was just a few kilometers away at . . . .

. . . . the settlement of Shimosagawacho. The story goes that these were placed on the outskirts of a village to ward-off any evil spirits that may have it's sights on the local population.

   The final stretch into Kasagi was uneventful and, when I reached the Kasagiohashi bridge, I was beginning to feel the strain of my day and thinking about to next 30km to home. But, before then, I needed to wrap-up my video recording and pack my cameras away. And knock-off the last two bananas in my pack.

   Although this trip did satisfy my obsession, and, thanks to my friends for researching and providing that information, I still want to return and, this time, check-out the stream and what lies beyond the Torii.

So, until next time - 

Sayonara.

   Video of the trip - https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=cIYlQVlWm3M

   Trip details and images - https://ridewithgps.com/trips/17715746

Exploring Tayama.

    It was a map of cycling courses through the tea-growing district of southern Kyoto Prefecture, that drew my attention to the settlement of Tayama. It was an area that I had passed-through, on one of my many cycling tours but, on this occasion, I decided to explore the settlement more closely. The map showed a couple of shrines - one hidden atop a hill amongst the many tea plantations and the other on another hill overlooking the town - and a cafe located in a disused school.

Map Location.

   My plan was to cycle to the Kasagi-ohashi Bridge, about 32km from home, set-up my cameras, have a banana, washed-down with some water, then head-off along a track that followed the Kizu River. The track is part of the 'Tokaido Road' which was created about four hundred years ago for travellers who migrated between Edo (modern day Tokyo) and Naniwa (modern day Osaka).

   Along the first 5-kilometers of track I was to experience an assortment of Shinto & Buddhist Stone Markers. These are always a favorite of mine as one can come-across them in some of the most isolated of places. 

   On my left is the Kizugawa River. This river has a very large catchment basin and, whenever there has been rain, especially a downpour, this river very-quickly becomes a raging torrent. Evidence of a recent typhoon were still lying several meters up the river-bank and bridges were being cleared of debris.

Map Location.

   My next stop was at the settlement of Asukaji and the Amaterasumikado-jinja Shrine. Tucked-away amongst the trees, this complex is an ideal place to take-a-break and soak in the serenity of your surroundings. There has been a shrine on this site for over 1,200-years.

   As I passed through Asukaji I was soon to be reminded that it was 'that' time of year again - rice harvesting. It just seems like yesterday that the fields were being prepared for planting. How time flies.

                                                                                                                   In places the path becomes narrow and overgrown and, all around me, is evidence of a typhoon that had just passed over a few days prior to my visit. I had one narrow escape, as can be seen on the video, of where I nearly cycled into a fallen tree. 

   Immediately below me, on my left, is the Kizugawa River. I am always mindful, when cycling along tracks such as this, to be aware of others, especially hikers. Medical treatment in Japan is very expensive and the cost of paying someones hospital bills would leave a very large hole in my bank account. 





   I soon pass through the settlement of Minamiokawara and my first junction of the day. About 4-kilometers along route-82 the Tokaido Road and I part company, at . . . .

Map Location.

 . . . . the Takayama Dam. It's difficult to imagine, when looking at this construction, what the view was 400-years ago. There was probably just a stream the migrants had to contend with back then.

Map Location.

   Two kilometers further up-the-road I arrive at this impressive bridge that spans Lake Tsukigase. On the far side is my destination - Tayama. But, before I cross, I take a moment to soak-in my surroundings. If I only had a kayak. 

   Tayama is about 1-kilometer from the other side of the bridge, which I pass through in search of Gongen-jinja Shrine. Once there I plan to have a break and a bite-to-eat. But I have to find it first. I am aware, after studying 'Google Maps', that there are many lanes/paths criss-crossing the hills and the shrine is located in there somewhere. This is where a local farmer comes to my assistance. With the few words of English he knows, he is able to give me directions that, if I have paid attention, should get me to my destination. I head-off up the first lane that emerges into a tea plantation. Just as I arrive there, my farmer friend appears in his small truck, after having taken another lane, to give me further directions. I couldn't express enough how grateful I was for his assistance. 

   As you can see in the satellite-image, Gongen-jinja is very isolated, to say the least and, upon arrival, you can't help but get the impression it has seen better days. But the surrounding views and the serenity makes one appreciate the beauty of the countryside.




   I am particularly intrigued with this Chozuya. As there was no visible water system, I assume someone brings some in a pail or rainwater is the other option.With all this beauty and serenity surrounding me, what better location to break for lunch.
   My return to the settlement, and my next shrine in the area, is via an alternative lane - quite possibly the one my farmer friend used earlier - but, before entering Suwa-jinja Shrine, I stop to admire the stone markers at the entrance.

                                                                                                                                                                I am impressed with this Sekibutsu as it hasn't been carved into solid rock, but what looks like a slab of rock. The L-shaped slab wouldn't be more than 3-cm thick. 

   Suwa-jinja is very imposing, not just for it's size and grandeur, but how it overlooks the settlement of Tayama. Wherever one stands in the town, the shrine is there for all to see.

                                                                                                                                                                Just off the main street of Tayama, is this disused elementary school that has been taken-over by several craft shops and this . . . .

. . . . quaint cafe. Walking into Cafe Nekopan was like going back 50-years, to when I attended Primary School at Dunsandel. It just seems like it was yesterday. The cafe has a very-appetizing menu and I highly recommend to anyone who is likely to be in the area.


   After a glass of ice-tea, courtesy of the owner, I move on. By this point I have clocked-up 50-kilometers and am still a long way from home. But, as I still have the energy, I decide to take another route back to Kasagi and more sightseeing.

Map Location.

   Like this bridge and settlement at the head of Lake Tsukigase. From this point to Kasagi, 14-kilometers away, I'm going to experience my first hill climbs of the day and I need to pace myself because, after reaching Kasagi, I still have 30-kilometers before reaching home. 

    An hour, and three hill-climbs later, I arrive at the town of Yagyu. The town was made famous for housing one of the oldest schools of swordsmanship in Japan - Yagyu Shinkage-ryu.
   But it's this Sekibutsu that I am keen to revisit, as-well-as have a bite to eat and take on water. This stone marker is very significant to those trying to conceive. What you do, is come here, along with a tray of Tofu, place the tray at the base of the icon, pray, then go away and hope for the best.
   From here to Kasagi it's downhill all the way. I arrive at the bridge that I departed from four-and-a-half hours and 37-kilometers earlier and am praying I have a tail wind home. The trip along route-163 - a busy highway at the best of times - can be hell if there is a head wind. But the gods are on my side and I am helped all the way home.

                                                            So, until next time,

                                                                     Sayonara.  

Course details and map - https://ridewithgps.com/trips/10851435

Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TWME855DFc