My latest Post.

This view,this beauty
A tear unbidden
Creeps into my eye.

My stay is short
But I shall return to this place
If only my life is long enough.

Such beauty
Gazing upon it
I hope my years are many.

Bokusui Wakayama.

Wednesday, August 22, 2018

The Shrines & Temples of Kyotanabe.


Ikkyu-ji Temple.
Tsutsuki Palace Site.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Kyotanabe City was once the capitol of Japan, albeit briefly,during the reign of Emperor Keitai (511-518). It's not a big city, covering an area of just under 43-square kilometers. Kyotanabe, like many other metropolitan areas of Japan, has it's fair share of history; like the site of the 'Tsutsuki Palace', and a collection of shrines & temples; some famous, like Ikkyu-ji Temple, and some not-so-famous.


    The idea for this post stemmed from my need to visit a bike-shop in the area, a 30-minute ride from home and, as the shop didn't open until 10:30am, I decided to leave early and do a tiki-tour of the area - namely the shrines & temples dotted-about rural Kyotanabe. Two of the sites I was familiar with, the others were first time experiences.
   Some of the sites have important history attached to them, while others, location is their main attraction. With an outing like this, my main aim was to keep off the beaten-track as much as possible and stick to the narrow lanes & paths so common in rural Japan. 



    I was out the door and on my bike by 07:30am, so as to arrive home by midday and avoid the scorching heat. My destination was the settlement of Mizutori, one of three settlements located within the 'Kyotanabeonesugi Hiking Course', an 8-kilometer circular walk that takes you through rural Kyotanabe.

    As I made my way my attention was distracted by the green rice-fields, still a month away from being fully grown and harvested. A scene I would witness throughout my tour.



Saiko-ji Temple.
                                                                                                                                                                         Saiko-ji Temple (map location) isn't one of those religious sites one will find in a tourist guide, but it was it's location - tucked-within a narrow lane surrounded by houses, with rice-fields all about - that gave it it's appeal. 




   






             The complex wasn't huge, about the size of a basketball court and, by standing in the center of the site, one is able to take-in the entire area. I was very impressed with how neat-&-tidy the site was, and the trees & shrubs nicely trimmed. In the above image is the main entrance and belfry. The structure, in the image on the right, has left me a bit confused; is it a Chozuya, or some other purification font? 



   Moving on from Saiko-ji, my course took me off the road and onto a narrow sealed lane, and some pure rural Japanese scenery. It doesn't get more beautiful than in the above image, and it is so serene.


   About six-weeks ago, whilst on one of my 'rambling bike-rides' in the area, I approached this junction. Looking into the trees on my left, I got the feeling there was something in here that may be of interest to me. About 100-meters in was the Chozuya, indication there may be a shrine in the vicinity.


   I ventured further into the forest, passing a stone monument, when I reached this flight of steps and, up in the distance, was the distinct vermilion-colored Torii.


Shiroyamadaimyoji-jinja.





   

   
  



   Shiroyamadaimyoji-jinja (map location) is located in the settlement of Fugenji. It's nothing spectacular, as shrines go, but again, it's the location that gives the site it's appeal. Which is why I included it in this post.


   Just along the lane from Shiroyamadaimyoji-jinja I passed-through a cluster of houses and, as I did so, my attention was drawn to these lovely orange-colored flowers, prompting me to stop and take this photo of them. Set against the white backdrop of the building, I thought I did well.



   I was now about to enter rice-growing territory and, with the rice just weeks away from harvest, this is a sight-to-behold. I arrive at a junction where a narrow lane leads me to my next two religious sites - Omido Kannon-ji Temple & Chigi-jinja Shrine (map location ).


                                                               Twice a year this complex is a sea of color. Sometime during May (Spring),when the Sakura are in full bloom, many come here to celebrate Hanami. Then, in October/November, it's the Autumn colors that attract the visitors.  
Omido Kannon-ji Temple.




   I lean my bike up-against a lamp-post, and wander down this tree-lined avenue to the main temple. 







Built in the Asuka Period (AD 538-710), Kannon-ji was, until the Muromachi Period (AD 1336-1573), one of many buildings that made up a large Buddhist Temple.
   The temple is home to the eleven-faced figure of Kannon. Made with wood-core and dry lacquer, the statue was created during the Nara Period (AD 710-794) and is designated a 'National Treasure'. If you inquire at the priests house, you might be fortunate to be guided to a small hall where the statue is housed. Although there is no admission fee, it would be polite to purchase a souvenir to provide protection of this priceless image.

   The temple exudes an atmosphere of serenity and beauty, and I was fortunate to have had the place to myself. The temple is partly-surrounded by a moat, with a large pond off to one side. 



   In a corner of the complex, partly hidden by trees, is a concrete Torii, with a flight of steps leading to Chigi-jinja Shrine.


Chigi-jinja.

   The shrine is totally enveloped by trees and covers an area about the size of a basketball quart. It's a combination of the old and the new. The old, I would hazard-a-guess, dates back several centuries, with the new being only recently constructed.



Shibayama-jinja.
                                                                                                                                                                       Shibayama-jinja (map location) took some careful navigating, and patience, to reach, and I am sure I passed the entrance more than once.




  





   Again, location was the main attraction here - nestled amid a bamboo forest - with all facilities sited within a small area. The shrine was located inside a fenced-off enclosure, with barbed-wire to prevent intruders.
   I did find this collection of Ema, or small wooden plaques quite impressive. These are a common sight at Shinto Shrines & Buddhist Temples.


Saga-jinja Shrine.

   Saga-jinja has an ancient history. Re-built in the Azuchi-Momoyama Period (AD 1573-1600) it's main hall is designated a 'National Cultural Asset'.


   After passing through the Ryobu Torii - distinctive with it's four supporting posts - the main complex is up two flights of steps; I didn't realize until after my visit, that there is an access lane & car-park.


  






             Saga-jinja is the largest site of today's outing. In the courtyard is another Torii and Setsumatsusha - small auxiliary shrine - next to a shelter. Plus the Chozuya and a collection of Toro - stone lanterns. In an enclosed area, behind the main building, are a collection of shrines and, to view or photograph them, one has to peek over the wall.


 












                                                                              

   


   Re-mounting my bike, my route took me through this avenue of trees and onto my next site . . . .


Shofuku-ji Temple.
   . . . . Shofuku-ji Temple (map location). On my way here I passed a cemetery and I got the impression that the two were connected, so, not wanting to be intrusive, I had a quick look around.


   As-soon-as I entered the complex, through this gate, I was impressed with the variety of color. Upon entering I was greeted with a small garden and this lovely pink-colored tree. In another corner was a tree that gave me the impression it was early Autumn. 


Hakusan Shrine.

   After cycling through the settlement of Miyazu, I arrive at the penultimate religious site of the day - Hakusan Shrine (map location). The shrine has three historically interesting points - it is the oldest shrine building in Kyotanabe, the shrine is of Muromachi Era (AD 1336-1573) architectural style and has been designated an 'Important Cultural Asset'.











   Dotted throughout the grounds are a collection of miniature shrine-like structures, along with several concrete lanterns. The complex has seen better days but, as seen on the map link, the view is what gives this shrine it's appeal - overlooking fields of rice.


    It was now time to head to the final site of the day, which required me to partly backtrack. Trying to avoid this as much as I could, I continued on from Hakusan along a dirt track, through this orchard, and onto a busy sealed road. I then changed-onto a narrow lane.


Sakaya-jinja Shrine.
     
   I soon arrived at a junction, and was greeted by these two large concrete lanterns. The path lead along an avenue of trees, passing more lanterns along the way and, as I reached the top, in front of me was - Sakaya-jinja (map location).

    
   The shrine's established date is still unknown to this day, however, according to the shrines history, it is said the Empress Consort Jingu (AD 169-269) left Sake barrels here as an offering to the gods before departing on an expedition to the Korean Peninsula. Today many people visit the shrine to worship the Gods of Sake.


   As I entered the complex I was about to purify my hands at the Chozuya (the first time today) but, as luck would have it, there was no running-water. So I proceeded towards the main building, passing a collection of Ema and O-mikuji.



   The main building is a magnificent wooden structure and, unfortunately, is enclosed within another confine. As I wondered-about the perimeter of the enclosure, I found myself in a large park-like area.


Looking around I espied this concrete Torii and several small Setsumatsusha, or auxiliary shrines, plus more concrete lanterns.


  




   In one corner of the park, partly camouflaged by trees, was a path. Eager to see where it lead, I entered the forest and discovered some steps and, atop, a wooden Torii. And another shrine. 











   Upon arrival, I took a peek into the shrine and noticed the two Kitsune, indicating that this may be an Inari Okami Jinja. This is where people may come to worship 'The Gods of Sake'.


   By now, after about four hours of checking-out nine different religious sites, I was feeling a bit 'shrined-out' (a personal description) and ready to return home. But there was one more surprise in store for me. As I was making my way back to my bike, I noticed another track leading into the forest. "Why not, one more  won't do any harm" I thought. About a hundred meters in, almost camouflaged by bamboo, was this small structure. How quaint but, for what purpose, I have no idea. No doubt it was connected with Sakaya-jinja. 


   Before mounting my bike, and returning home, I couldn't resist the temptation for a photo-opp' and, where better, than among the green foliage with the Torii & Chozuya in the foreground. 

   During my research for this post, I discovered other historical sites in-and-about Kyotanabe City. As I live just 30-minutes from the area, I think a return visit may be on the cards. 


So, until next time - 
        
Sayonara.

   Map & course details - https://ridewithgps.com/trips/26861511
   Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fUZsJ9CKmM 

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